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Medieval
Clothes & Accessories
THE
COTEHARDIE - THE SURCOTE
- UNDERWEAR - HOODS
- VEILS - BELTS
& GIRDLES - PURSES &
BAGS
CLOAKS - TIPPETS
- SHOES - EMBELLISHMENTS
- GLOSSARY OF CLOTHING NAMES
"Medieval
clothing" is an immensely broad term, covering the basic tunics of
the 10th century, the cottes of the 12th and 13th centuries, the fitted
kyrtles and cotehardies of the 14th and 15th centuries to the massive
houppelands and Burgundian gowns of the later 15th century. As fabric
was hand-made and very expensive, clothing was often seen as a status
symbol- the richer the wearer, the more costly the fabric and the more
voluminous the garments. Wealthier persons wore more layers, often lined
with expensive furs in winter, while those with a more moderate income
wore less layers which were often unlined.
What I will be primarily dealing with in this website is the 14th century
woman's garments, what they looked like and how they were put together.
The outfit comprised of many layers- the chemise or smock or fine linen
was worn next to the skin. The gown, cotte or cotehardie, a fitted dress
was worn over that. A surcote of some kind was usually worn by women who
could afford to do so. This garment could have sleeves or be sideless.
For traveling, another more voluminous surcote might be added as well
as a cloak.
The pages which look at aspects of womens' clothing are as follows:
- THE COTEHARDIE
- A look at the 14th century medieval dress
- THE SURCOTE - The
outer layer
- UNDERWEAR - A
lady's underclothes revealed
- HOODS - The buttoned-up
hood
- VEILS & WIMPLES
- The well-bred lady's coverchief
- BELTS & GIRDLES
- Belts & belt fittings
- PURSES - Purses,
pouches, aumonieres and bags
- CLOAKS - The outermost
layer of all
- TIPPETS - The
arm accessory of the late 14th century
- SHOES - the 14th
century shoe
- EMBELLISHMENTS
- Finishing touches: embroidery, jewelled bands & buttons
- GLOSSARY - Glossary of clothing
& personal adornment terms
Margherita
Datini, the wife of a wealthy merchant and a member of the upper classes,
will serve as our model woman. She is pictured at right. Her wardrobe
is listed concisely in 1339. It included 2 gowns, 11 surcotes of differing
cut and fullness listed in detail on the SURCOTE
page, a rich overgown of heavy silk which her husband Francesco had imported
from Rumania. She had six cold weather cloaks, also full-cut, a number
of head-dresses of a variety of shapes and sizes, a fur cap, a cloth cap,
a straw hat for summer, two leather belts with silver gilt buckles, wooden
pattens with leather laces, one pair of backless leather slippers with
thick soles called pianelles, white linen undersocks, long hose
of silk or wool, at least two veils, one of silk made in Venice. She owned
at leasts two purses of embroidered wool, a peacock feather fan, and handkerchiefs
made of Sicilian silk. Margherita carried her veil, purse, fan and handkerchief
at her side at all times.
Information from archaeological sewing finds on existing garments from
both before and after this time period have been included, as the number
of entire garments from within the 14th century is extremely limited to
fragments and state robes or ecclesiastic garments which are not a real
portrayal of general clothing.
Copyright
© 2005-2008 Rosalie Gilbert
All text & photographs within this site are the property of Rosalie
Gilbert unless stated. Artifact images remain the property of the owner.
Images and text may not be copied and used without permission.
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