Medieval Clothes & Accessories
THE COTEHARDIE - THE SURCOTE - UNDERWEAR - HOODS - VEILS - BELTS & GIRDLES - PURSES & BAGS
CLOAKS - TIPPETS - SHOES - EMBELLISHMENTS - GLOSSARY OF CLOTHING NAMES

"Medieval clothing" is an immensely broad term, covering the basic tunics of the 10th century, the cottes of the 12th and 13th centuries, the fitted kyrtles and cotehardies of the 14th and 15th centuries to the massive houppelands and Burgundian gowns of the later 15th century. As fabric was hand-made and very expensive, clothing was often seen as a status symbol- the richer the wearer, the more costly the fabric and the more voluminous the garments. Wealthier persons wore more layers, often lined with expensive furs in winter, while those with a more moderate income wore less layers which were often unlined.

What I will be primarily dealing with in this website is the 14th century woman's garments, what they looked like and how they were put together.

The outfit comprised of many layers- the chemise or smock or fine linen was worn next to the skin. The gown, cotte or cotehardie, a fitted dress was worn over that. A surcote of some kind was usually worn by women who could afford to do so. This garment could have sleeves or be sideless. For traveling, another more voluminous surcote might be added as well as a cloak.

The pages which look at aspects of womens' clothing are as follows:

- THE COTEHARDIE - A look at the 14th century medieval dress
- THE SURCOTE - The outer layer
- UNDERWEAR - A lady's underclothes revealed
- HOODS - The buttoned-up hood
- VEILS & WIMPLES - The well-bred lady's coverchief
- BELTS & GIRDLES - Belts & belt fittings
- PURSES - Purses, pouches, aumonieres and bags
- CLOAKS - The outermost layer of all
- TIPPETS - The arm accessory of the late 14th century
- SHOES - the 14th century shoe
- EMBELLISHMENTS - Finishing touches: embroidery, jewelled bands & buttons
- GLOSSARY - Glossary of clothing & personal adornment terms

Margherita Datini, the wife of a wealthy merchant and a member of the upper classes, will serve as our model woman. She is pictured at right. Her wardrobe is listed concisely in 1339. It included 2 gowns, 11 surcotes of differing cut and fullness listed in detail on the SURCOTE page, a rich overgown of heavy silk which her husband Francesco had imported from Rumania. She had six cold weather cloaks, also full-cut, a number of head-dresses of a variety of shapes and sizes, a fur cap, a cloth cap, a straw hat for summer, two leather belts with silver gilt buckles, wooden pattens with leather laces, one pair of backless leather slippers with thick soles called pianelles, white linen undersocks, long hose of silk or wool, at least two veils, one of silk made in Venice. She owned at leasts two purses of embroidered wool, a peacock feather fan, and handkerchiefs made of Sicilian silk. Margherita carried her veil, purse, fan and handkerchief at her side at all times.

Information from archaeological sewing finds on existing garments from both before and after this time period have been included, as the number of entire garments from within the 14th century is extremely limited to fragments and state robes or ecclesiastic garments which are not a real portrayal of general clothing.

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