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Medieval
Cosmetics
FOUNDATION
- EYELINER &
EYESHADOW - LIP
BALM - ROUGE
 The
statue at right is dated at 1350 shows a well-made up woman, her fashionably
pale skin with plucked eyebrows, high hairline and round forehead and
a generous amount of rouge.
Opinions varied even between the clergy as to the respectability of
wearing cosmetics. It was felt that it was generally not a desired state
although it was mentioned that women who had been afflicted with illness
and were thereby made unattractive, were excused from the sin of vanity
by a desire to not repel others or their husbands.
In the same vein, Thomas of Aquinas was questioned about the use of cosmetics
by woman and it was also grudgingly conceded for a woman to make herself
as attractive as possible to her husband so that he might not stray into
the sin of adultery was itself not a sin, however, it was cautioned that
a woman should not make herself so beautiful that she should attract other
women's husbands.
Foundation
Studies have shown that women in England "painted their faces white"
to achieve a paler-looking complexion.  Women
often painted their faces with blaunchet or wheaten flour or used lead-filled
cosmetics. It was assured that the root of the Madonna Lily would whiten
the face. Research also suggests "ground lily root" made a powder
for faces, although it does not specify what kind of lily is recommended.
The "Compendium Anglicus" from 1240 written by Gilbertus
Anglicus recommends Cyclamen root.
Pictured (at left) is a beautiful example of an ivory mirror back dated
at 1325-75.
One recipe for a flour-based cosmetic to whiten the face comes from the
"L'ornement des dames" in the 13th century. The method
is as follows:
"There is a white make-up that
is very easy to make. Put very pure wheat in water for fifitenn days,
then grind and blend it in the water. Strain through a cloth, and let
it crystalise and evaporate. You will obtain a make-up which will be
as white as snow. When you want to use it, mix it with rosewater, and
spread it on your face whihc has first been washed with warm water.
Then dry your face with a cloth."
Eyeliner
and eyeshadow
Many books say that colours and eyeliner were available at this time,
and indeed it is commonly known that since early antiquity the Egyptians
and later the woman of the Rus at Staraya Ladoga in the 10th century were
using eyeliner and eyeshadow, but a great many paintings and sculptures
for the High Middle Ages show women with pale and unadorned eyes and eyebrows
heavily plucked.
Lip
balms
Lip tinctures and balms made of wax seem to be the lip treatments most
commonly referred to. Beeswax and oil melted in a metal spoon and allowed
to cool made a semi-solid balm for smoothing the lips. One recipe for
a medieval lip balm described as a "sweet smelling grease that
will keep the lips and hands from chapping and make them moist and soft"
comes from the book "Secrets of Don Alessio Piemontese",
published in 1557.
"Take 12 oz of fresh suet and 6oz
of marjoram and pound them together. Form into balls and sprinkle with
good wine. Next put into some vessel and seal it tightly so that the
odor of the marjoram does not escape. Place in the shade for 24 hours
and then put into water. Cook slowly, then strain."
This process must be repeated
4 or 5 times always adding another 9oz of suet. Finally a little musk
or civet can be added.
There appeared also available a lip stain, but I have no information about
those at this point.
 Rouge
The ground leaves of Angelica angelica archangelica were the principal
ingredient for the manufacture of "ladies' red powder". Dried
flowers of the Safflower carthamum tinctorius were used in the
making of rouge.
In a poem by a monk of Montaudon (1180-1215AD) he states that the statues
of the churches complain to God:
"that there is not enough paint
left to adorn them because of all the ladies who use rouge and cream".
The "Compendium Anglicus"
from 1240 written by Gilbertus Anglicus, mentions brazilwood chips soaked
in rosewater will give a clear, pink dye which can be rubbed on the cheeks.
A 13th century French song refers to a peddlar who carries for sale "razors,
tweezers, looking glasses, toothbrushes and tooth-picks, bandaus and curling
irons, ribbons, combs, mirrors, rosewater... cotton with which they rouge
themselves and whitening with which they whiten themselves."
Copyright © Rosalie
Gilbert
All text & photographs within this site are the property of Rosalie
Gilbert unless stated.
Artifact images remain the property of the owner.
Images and text may not be copied and used without permission.
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