FABRIC NAMES & DESCRIPTIONS

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EMBROIDERY

Embroidery

Embroidery was an accepted pastime of the noble lady and indeed it was considered one of her finer accomplishments. Many of the techniques used in the middle ages are still in use today- couching, split stitch and appliqué.

Embroidery was used to provide finishing touches to almost any garment. A cotehardie neck band, sleeve edges or hem, of a cloak. Veils might also be embroidered at the edges. Popular art shows many surcotes with embroidered bands. Popular motifs included heraldry, mottos or phrases of love, animals, flowers and botanical themes and religious scenes and characters like the Virgin and Son or a patron Saint.

The detail above from the 1445-1450 painting by Rogier van der Weyden of "Saints Margaret And Apollonia" shows embroidery, possibly gold thread around the neckline of her garment. Another detail at right from the same painting also shows the bottom edge of a cloak with its heavy gold embroidery also. The cotehardie and brocaded surcote can clearly be seen also.

There are very few existent fragments remaining. A beautiful sample of medieval embroidery can be seen at right on an embroidered band. The embroidery was sewn onto a separate strip of fabric which was then stitched to the garment.

Dated at the 13th century, it is a band of fantastic animals in roundels embroidered with gold thread on silk twill. Photo ©Timothy Mitchell, courtesy of the Victoria Albert Museum of London. (Currently seeking permission to use image)

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