HOME
CLOTHES & ACCESSORIES FABRICS & SEWING GLOSSARY of CLOTHING TERMS BEAUTY & HYGIENE CELEBRATIONS

HISTORICAL RE-ENACTMENTMY RE-ENACTMENT LIFE, CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES THE SCRIPTORIUM LINKSMY SUPPLIERSSITE MAP EMAIL ME

MY PERSONA

MY GARB

DOUGAL'S GARB

MY DRESS ACCESSORIES

MY HOUSEHOLD ITEMS

MY SEWING GALLERY

 

My Sewing Photo Gallery
Photos of some outfits I've made for others
(and outfits I don't have anymore)

UPPER CLASS COURT CLOTHING - MIDDLE & LOWER CLASS DAYWEAR - HOODS, HEADWARE - MASKS

Upper class court clothing
14th C Velvet Cotehardie
This is made from navy blue cotton velveteen with the lower cut as wide as the fabric permitted- no gores in the lower part of the dress. The sleeves, neckline and hem are all hand-stitched with a rolled fell stitch. Cuffs fall over the knuckles. It is front lacing with eyelets at 2cm intervals and re-inforcing band inside.
14th C Velvet Cotehardie
This is made from burgundy cotton velveteen. It has four gores in the lower seams to add fullness into the lower part of the dress. The hem has 2.5cm wide woven gold metal braid hand stitched on. The sleeves and wide, low neckline have metal thread braid stitched with pearl detail. It is back lacing with eyelets at 2cm intervals.
15th C Velvet Burgundian Gown
with Steeple Henin

This is the standard Burgundian gown of the 15th century. It has a fitted V bodice and fitted sleeves with full lower dress and train. It is laced with metal eyelets at the inside of the front seam which closes the gown. A black velvet coif and pins secure the hennin to the head.
13th C Nobleman's Cotte & Chaperon
The red velveteen cotte is lined with natural off-white linen. It is designed to be pulled in with a belt making folds at the front of the cotte. It has long, wide sleeves which may or may not be worn folded back to expose the sleeves of the under garment. Is has a small, standing collar which has a tie closure. The black velvet chaperon includes a large, padded roll, comb and tippet.

13th/14th C Velvet Nobleman's Robe
A navy blue velvetrobe lined with brown linen. It is designed to be pulled in with a belt to make folds at the front of the robe. It has long, wide sleeves which may or may not be worn folded back to expose the coloured lining and sleeves of the under garment. It has a small standing collar and laces across the V at the front.

14th C White Brocade Cotehardie (at left)
This brocaded cotton cotehardie has a floral and semi-geometric pattern similar to those of illuminated manuscripts. It is front lacing with hand-stitched eyelets 2cm apart. No gores are included. The neckline is very low and wide designed for a young woman to wear. It has woven gold metal braid around the neckline with amber glass beads set into it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Late 14th C Fur-trimmed Sideless Surcote
The skirt part of this garment has undergone several incarnations- from the original green patterned silk (at left) to the brown diaper brocade to the burgundy velveteen (at right). It's lined with off-white linen. The furred sideless surcote top was a challenge, not having worked with fur before. I used white fur which was favoured by Ladies of the noble court. I have a jeweled band down the front replaced with a square setting of brass with gold gilt and freshwater pearls. I have fake jewels in the centres of the band, but even nobles occasionally wore fake gems. I don't have this outfit anymore- but it can be seen with the Abbey Museum around tournament time.

14th C Velvet Cotehardie
This cotehardie is made from scarlet cotton velveteen with the lower cut as wide as the fabric permitted- and has no gores in the lower part of the dress. The sleeves, neckline and hem are all hand-stitched with a rolled fell stitch. The sleeves are wrist length so as not to impede the playing of instruments. It is front lacing with eyelets at 2cm intervals.
14th C Brocaded Cotehardie
This gown is made from a heavy, brown brocaded polished cotton fabric with circular geometric patterns. It is front lacing with eyelets embroidered 2cm apart. This is a fairly fitted dress as it's primary use is as an underdress for surcotes. It is shown here without accessories
14th C Velvet Cotehardie
This gown has a tight-fitting bodice and large lower dress with gores added for extra skirtage. As it is a noble woman's gown it has a low, wide neckline, a longish train and is back lacing, with eyelets at 2cm intervals.
14th C Sideless Surcote
This type of low-cut-to-the-hip style sideless surcote is designed to show off the undergown and jewelled belt beneath. It is made from brocaded cotton blend in a wine colour. The design of the fabric includes flowers in an offset pattern. It has no gores, the seams at front and back allowed for wideness in the lower part of the skirt when cutting and it has a small train.
15th C Velvet Burgundian Gown
Fitted V bodice and sleeves with full lower dress. Laced with metal eyelets at the inside of the front seam which closes the gown. The collar and cuffs are imitation light-brown fur.
14th C Velvet Upper Class Cotte
Red velvet lined with white linen. Designed to be pulled in with a belt making folds at the front and back of the cotte. Long, wide sleeves which may or may not be worn folded back to expose the under garment. Small standing collar and lacing across the V at the front. Model's own accessories.
15th century burgundian gown
Fitted V bodice and sleeves with full lower dress. The gown is burgundy and olive cotton brocade. Laced with metal eyelets at the inside of the front seam which closes the gown. The collar and cuffs are a bright wine colour but not shown here. The gown is worn with a wide belt which usually buckles at the back.
15th C Burgundian Gown
Middle & lower class daywear
14th C Linen Worker's Tunic
Basic man's T-tunic style with straight leg trousers. White linen coif. Unlined basic hood without buttons. This is a very easy ensemble to assemble and yet it looks great put together.
13th C Linen Worker's Kyrtle and Surcote
Pale blue 100% pure linen lined with unbleached off-white linen. Basic T-tunic style with small slit at the throat which could be embroidered. Sleeves reach past the fingertips to cover the hands in cold weather. Surcote with open sides.
13th C Linen Man's Tunic
Pale blue working man's tunic, linen lined with unbleached off-white linen. Basic T-tunic style with small slit at the throat and long splits front and back to allow for ease of movement. Sleeves reach past the fingertips to cover the hands in cold weather.
12th/13th C Linen Over-Kyrtle
Pure chocolate linen kyrtle for an upper class merchant woman. Round moderate neckline. Basic T-tunic style with flared sleeves lined with pale pink silk. Gores inserted into the lower seams for skirt fullness. To be worn over a fitted underdress.
12th/13th C Linen Tunic and Overtunic
Plain fitted aqua blue undertunic with pale pink overtunic. Overtunic lined with yellow with long slit at neck which could be embroidered. The wide sleeves could be folded back to expose the lining and undergown.
14th C Cotehardie with Lappets
Fitted man's cotehardie with long sleeve lappets- half cut away sleeves to expose the garment underneath. Tan diamond patterned brocade. Worn here with short, tight blue linen hood.
Linen cotehardie
14th C Linen Cotehardie & Linen Surcote
Navy blue front-lacing pure linen cotehardie lined with white linen. Brick red surcote with deep-cut armholes. Lined with unbleached linen.
14th C Linen Tunic With Lappets & Cowl
Fitted man's linen cotehardie with long sleeve lappets- half cut away sleeves to expose the garment underneath as seen in the Luttrel Psalter. Cowl with no buttons for warmth.
12th C Tunic & Hood
Made for a stallholder in faux-silk, the design is basic T-tunic style with large woven braid in squares and flowers suiting the general gypsy theme.
13th C Linen Half-Sleeve Worker's Kyrtle
Basic T-tunic pattern with short sleeves. Linen smock is showing underneath and may have the sleeves rolled up for work. Green linen lined hood with button front.
White Linen Undersherte and coif
Underwear for the medieval man. Coif cut from a two piece pattern with ties made from linen. The sherte is cut from the basic T tunic style with sleeves tapered at the wrists.
Working Class Tunics With and Without Surcote
Both women are wearing essentially the same garments, with the one on the left a surcote and apron. Basic T-tunic style which flare out at the bottom, but no a great deal as these garments are designed for working.
Gilbert Family Coat of Arms Heraldic Tabbard
Made from cotton lined with cotton. Embroidered applique of the Gilbert family coat of arms- three roses on a red chevron. Split at the front and back seams for ease of movement. This really is a fancy dress outfit, but it's lovely, especially when worn with his black daggued hood.
Linen Undertunic
This style of tunic was worn under almost every style of gown and cotehardie over several centuries. Usually worn over a linen smock and under the top layer of clothing. Brown linen with round neck and tight fitting sleeves.
Archers outfit
13th C workers clothes
Taken before the group and finished dressing in the morning, but the girl is attired and ready. Yellow underdress showing under the short sleeve tunic. Apron and hood with no opening for warmth.
Hoods and headware
Black velvet chaperon
This black velveteen chaperon of the late 14th century includes a large, padded roll, comb and tippet. I have made several of these in different colours.
14th C Daggued Hood
Shaped man's hood cotton lined with cotton with shoulder gores and decorative daggues. Red lined with black or black lined with red.
Templers & Fillet with Veil
An embroidered, wrapped silk fillet with jewel-and-pearled templers and hand-stitched veil. When worn, the veil is pinned to the silk fillet. These are made of velvet and silk and hand beaded with small seed pearls. I'm not entirely happy with them, but they're a huge improvement on my first ones.
14th C Gold Templers
A popular headpiece from the 1350s. This prototype involved the use of false hair which is consistant with existant information of the period. Made with gold braid and small seed pearls. Worn with a short veil. I retired these but will be making a better pair in the future.
Linen Hood
Linen hood with shoulder gores and long cowl for warmth. Linen lined with linen. No front opening.
15th C Lady's Hood
This hood is designed with small shoulder gores and usually buttons all the way up the front to close around the throat. Linen lined with linen.
 
Masks
Black feathered mask
Peacock mask
white feathered mask

 

Copyright © Rosalie Gilbert
All text & photographs within this site are the property of Rosalie Gilbert unless stated.
Artifact images remain the property of the owner.
Images and text may not be copied and used without permission.