BACK TO MY SEWINGROSALIE'S GARB HEADWEARDRESS ACCESSORIESMANUSCRIPT CHALLENGES

Rosalie's Garb
14th C Clothing
- 13th C Clothing - Underwear - Hose - Sleeves & Tippets

14th C Clothing - Silk
heraldic silk particolour gown
burgundy silk kirtle
sage green silk kirtle
blue silk gown
silver silk gown with short sleeves
blue silk sideless surcote

14th C Clothing - Velvet
velveteen heraldic sideless surcote
velveteen and fur sideless surcote

14th C Clothing - Wool
Oatmeal wool kirtle
Mauve wool overgown
Russet wool kirtle
black wool underdress
blue wool surcote
green wool cloak

14th C Clothing - Linen
brown short sleeve linen kirtle
blue linen kirtle
pale blue linen tunic with wide sleeves
red linen blend T-tunic
pink linen laced surcote
blue linen sideless surcote

13th C Clothing


Bright blue linen blend T-tunic overdress
brown linen blend T-tunic
navy blue linen T-tunic

Underwear
white cotton voile gathered chemise
cream silk gathered chemise
white linen smock
white linen blend sleeveless chemise
natural linen smock

Hose
pumpkin yellow wool hose
red wool hose
navy wool hose

Sleeves &
tippets
blue pattern silk sleeves
red silk sleeves

cream silk tippets
white silk tippets
white linen tippets

14th Century Clothing - Silk

14th century red and white silk heraldic gown

Country of Garment: England
Style of Garment: 14th century kirtle
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
Red and white with red chevron
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% dupion silk
Garment Lining Colour: white
Garment Lining Fabric: 100% dupion silk
Sleeve Style: Long, fitted sleeve with pewter buttons with red paste gems set in the centre to the elbow.
Dress Closures: Front buttoning with pewter buttons with red paste gems set in the centre.
Decorative features, embroidery etc: Coat of arms embroidered and appliquéd on the left side.
Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. 4-panel pattern. Gores. Set in armholes. Rolled hems.
Made by: Rosalie. Buttons by Steve Millingham Pewter Replicas.
Documentation: Bourbons meeting Clermont en Beauvais hunting scene

14th century silver short-sleeved silk gown

Country of Garment: England
Style of Garment: 14th century kirtle
Size: modern 8
Garment Outer Colour:
Silver grey
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% dupion silk
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: Short sleeve
Dress Closures: Pewter buttons with red paste gems set in the centre.
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. 4-panel pattern with gores. Set in armholes. Rolled hems.
Made by: Rosalie. Buttons from Steve Millingham Pewter Replicas.
Documentation: 1395-1401 Grande Bible Historiale, Johannette Ravenelle

14th century sage-green silk laced kirtle

Country of Garment: England
Style of Garment: 14th century kirtle
Size:
Garment Outer Colour:
Sage green
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% dupion silk
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: Long, fitted sleeve without buttons
Dress Closures: Laced with lucet cord
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. 4-panel pattern. Set in armholes. Rolled hems. Hand stitched eyelets. Hand luceted lace.
Made by: Rosalie.
Documentation: Laced gown on a noble- Kathryn de Mortimer effigy; Nuremberg sculpture.

14th century blue buttoned silk gown

Country of Garment: England
Style of Garment: 14th century kirtle
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
Peacock blue
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% dupion silk
Garment Lining Colour: unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: none
Sleeve Style: Long, fitted sleeves
Dress Closures: Front buttoning with pewter buttons with blue paste gems set in the centre.
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. 4-panel pattern. Gores. Set in armholes. Rolled hems.
Made by: Rosalie. Buttons by Steve Millingham Pewter Replicas.
Documentation: artifact- late 14th century pewter milkmaid badge from London, Paulina and the Priest manuscript

14th century burgundy silk laced kirtle

Country of Garment: England
Style of Garment: 14th century kirtle
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
burgundy
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% dupion silk
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: Long, fitted sleeve without buttons
Dress Closures: Laced with lucet cord
Decorative features, embroidery etc: Gold metal braid at the neckline and wrist set with fake pearls. Three lines of gold embroidery at hem with pearls set on top of scallops.
Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. 4-panel pattern. Set in armholes. Rolled hems. Hand sewn eyelets. Hand luceted lace.
Made by: Rosalie.
Documentation: 1387 Bearosin Getting Engaged Prague; Kathryn de Mortimer effigy

14th century peacock blue silk sideless surcote

Country of Garment: England/France
Style of Garment: 14th century sideless surcote with low armholes
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
peacock blue
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% dupion silk
Garment Lining Colour: Pale blue
Garment Lining Fabric: 100% dupion silk
Decorative features, embroidery etc: Gold metal braid at the neckline and armholes. Flat metal woven braid with silver and gold pattern at hem. Gold thread embroidered band. Gold, rose-shaped bezants set in between the double rows of embroidery.
Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. Rolled hems. Hand-embroidered gold embroidery detail, gold rose bezants.
Made by: Rosalie.
Documentation: 1400-1425 Assasination of Agamemnon de Casibus. BNF Fr 226 Fol 27; 1400-9 St Jerome tempted by dancing girls.

14th Century Clothing - Velvet

Heraldic false velvet sideless surcote

Country of Garment: England
Style of Garment: 14th century sideless surcote
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
red and white with red chevron
Garment Outer Fabric: cotton velveteen
Garment Lining Colour: white
Garment Lining Fabric: cotton
Decorative features, embroidery etc: Coat of arms embroidered and appliquéd onto right side.
Construction: Machine stitched internallly with cotton thread. Hand finished. 4-panel pattern. Rolled hems. Hand embroidered roses and chevron. No fur on the surcote.
Made by: Rosalie.
Documentation: Luttrell Psalter 1335 Geoffery Lutterell With His Wife And Daughter

14th century false velvet sideless surcote with fur

Country of Garment: England
Style of Garment: 14th century sideless surcote
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
burgundy with white fur
Garment Outer Fabric: velveteen with rabbit fur
Garment Lining Colour: natural
Garment Lining Fabric: Cotton-linen blend, satin
Decorative features, embroidery etc: Square, metal band of gems stitched down the front.
Construction: Machine stitched velveteen skirt with quilting thread. Linen blend lining. Rolled hems. Hand sewn rabbit fur upper with sateen backing all made by hand.
Made by: Rosalie.
Donated to:
Abbey Museum of Art & Archaeology for displays
Documentation: 1403 French manuscript K106292, Eleanor of Castille effigy between 1361-1425

14th Century Clothing - Wool

14th century oatmeal striped weave wool kirtle

Country of Garment: England
Style of Garment: 14th century kirtle
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
oatmeal
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% wool with woven stripe
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: Long, fitted sleeve with cloth buttons
Dress Closures: Laced with lucet cord
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with cream quilting thread. 4-panel pattern with gores. Set in armholes. Rolled hems. Hand embroidered eyelet holes and handmade wool buttons on the sleeves.
Made by: Rosalie.
Documentation: Kathryn de Mortimer effigy

14th century mauve striped weave wool gown

Country of Garment: Italy
Style of Garment: 1390 wide sleeve overgown
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
Blue
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% wool with woven stripe
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: Wide sleeves
Dress Closures: Laced with lucet cord at the side
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with cream quilting thread. 4-panel pattern with gores. Set in armholes. Rolled hems. Hand embroidered eyelet holes
Made by: Rosalie.
Documentation 1410-1411 Christine Presenting Her Manuscript To King Charles VI of France

14th century russet wool kirtle

Country of Garment: England
Style of Garment: 14th century kirtle
Size: modern 8
Garment Outer Colour:
russet brown
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% wool
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: Long, fitted sleeve
Dress Closures: Laced with lucet cord
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with brown quilting thread. 4-panel pattern with gores. Set in armholes. Rolled hems. Hand embroidered eyelet holes. Silk facing around the neckline, linen re-inforcing for eyelets.
Made by: Rosalie.
Photo by Angela Ketley

14th century black wool laced undergown

Country of Garment: France
Style of Garment: 1390 kirtle
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
black
Garment Outer Fabric: Melton wool
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: Long, fitted sleeve without buttons
Dress Closures: Laced with lucet cord
Decorative features, embroidery etc: None.
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 4-panel pattern. Set in armholes. Rolled hems. Flat felled seams.
Made by: Rosalie.
Documentation: Tacuinim Sanitatus, Tailor's Workshop

14th & 15th century navy blue wool surcote

Country of Garment: England
Style of Garment: 14th century surcote
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
navy blue
Garment Outer Fabric: Melton wool
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: High cut armholes
Dress Closures: None
Decorative features, embroidery etc: None
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 4-panel pattern. Felled seams. Rolled hems.
Made by: Rosalie.
Documentation: 14th century France, Romance of the Saint, also 15th century paintings

14th century green wool mantle

Country of Garment: England
Style of Garment: 14th century mantle
Garment Outer Colour:
green
Garment Outer Fabric: Scottish wool
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Dress Closures: None
Decorative features, embroidery etc: None
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 4-panel pattern. Felled seams. Rolled hems.
Made by: Rosalie.
Documentation: approx. 1426 Van Eyck, The Three Maoris at the Tomb

14th Century Clothing - Linen

Brown short-sleeve linen kirtle

Country of Garment: England
Style of Garment: 14th century short-sleeved kirtle
Size: modern 8-10
Garment Outer Colour:
mid brown
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% linen
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: Short, set-in sleeves
Dress Closures: Pewter buttons made by Bob Mackay
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 4-panel pattern. Set in armholes. Felled seams. Rolled hems.
Made by: Rosalie.
Documentation: 1400 The Nativity

14th century blue linen blend kirtle

Country of Garment: England
Style of Garment: 14th century kirtle
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
bright blue
Garment Outer Fabric: cotton-linen blend
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: Long sleeves without buttons
Dress Closures: Lucet braid front lacing
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 4-panel pattern. Set in armholes. Felled seams. Rolled hems.
Made by: Rosalie.
Documentation: 1412-14 Duk de Berry's Les tres Riches Heures, Limbourgh Brothers, France

14th century blue linen overtunic with wide sleeves

Country of Garment: England
Style of Garment: 13th/14th century wide-sleeved overtunic
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
pale blue
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% linen
Garment Lining Colour: Cream
Garment Lining Fabric: 100% linen
Sleeve Style: Sleeve wide from the elbow to wrist
Dress Closures: None
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 4-panel T tunic pattern. Felled seams. Rolled hems.
Made by: Rosalie.
Documentation:

14th century red linen blend T-tunic

Country of Garment: England
Style of Garment: 13th-14th century T-tunic
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
bright red
Garment Outer Fabric: 80% linen
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: Long sleeves with no openings
Dress Closures: none
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 4-panel pattern. T-tunic pattern. Felled seams. Rolled hems.
Made by: Rosalie.
Documentation: 1385 Tacuinim Sanitatus Italy.

14th century pink linen laced surcote

Country of Garment: England
Style of Garment: 14th century surcote
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
mushroom pink
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% linen
Garment Lining Colour: cream
Garment Lining Fabric: 100% linen
Sleeve Style: High set armholes
Dress Closures: Side lacing with luceted laces.
Decorative features, embroidery etc: 2 lines of linen thread embroidery around the sleeves, and extra scallop embroidery around the neckline.
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 2-panel pattern. Felled seams. Rolled hems. Hand sewn eyelet holes. Hand luceted laces.
Made by: Rosalie.
Documentation: 14th century France, Romance of the Saint.

14th century blue linen sideless surcote

Country of Garment: England
Style of Garment: 14th century sideless surcote
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
blue
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% linen
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: Low-cut armholes
Dress Closures: none
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 2-panel pattern. Felled seams. Rolled hems.
Made by: Rosalie.
Documentation: 1348 Romance of the Rose, Paris,150va

13th Century Clothing

13th century bright blue T-tunic

Country of Garment: England
Style of Garment: 13th century T-tunic
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
bright blue
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% linen
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: Long sleeves with no openings
Dress Closures: none
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 4-panel pattern. T-tunic pattern. Felled seams. Rolled hems.
Made by: Rosalie.
Documentation: England 14th century Luttrell Psalter and Ormesby Psalter, 13th century Maciejowski Bible France

13th century brown linen T-tunic

Country of Garment: England
Style of Garment: 13th century T-tunic
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
brown
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% linen
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: Long sleeves with no openings
Dress Closures: none
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 4-panel pattern. T-tunic pattern. Felled seams. Rolled hems.
Made by: Rosalie.
Documentation: Luttrell Psalter England 14th century, Ormesby Psalter, 13th century Maciejowski Bible France

13th century navy blue linen T-tunic

Country of Garment: England
Style of Garment: 13th century T-tunic
Size: modern 8-10
Garment Outer Colour:
navy blue
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% linen
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: Long sleeves with no openings
Dress Closures: none
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 4-panel pattern. T-tunic pattern. Felled seams. Rolled hems.
Made by: Rosalie.
Documentation: Luttrell Psalter England 14th century, Ormesby Psalter, 13th century Maciejowski Bible France

Underwear

14th century cotton voile chemise

Country of Garment: Bohemia
Style of Garment: 14th century chemise
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
white
Garment Outer Fabric: cotton voile
Sleeve Style: sleeveless
Dress Closures: none
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with cotton thread. 2-panel pattern. Plaited drawstring. Rolled hems.
Made by: Rosalie.
Documentation: Bohemia, Wenceceslas Bible

14th century silk gathered chemise

Country of Garment: Bohemia
Style of Garment: 14th century chemise
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
cream
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% silk georgette
Sleeve Style: sleeveless
Dress Closures: none
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. 2-panel pattern. Silk shoulder drawstring made from rolled silk tube. Rolled hems.
Made by: Rosalie.
Documentation: Bohemia, Wenceceslas Bible

White linen blend sleeveless smock

Country of Garment: England
Style of Garment: 14th century smock
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
white
Garment Outer Fabric: linen blend
Sleeve Style: Sleeveless
Dress Closures: none
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 4-panel pattern. Rolled hems.
Made by: Rosalie.
Documentation: Kohler Book of Costume, 1376-7 Birth of John the Baptist, Padua

Natural linen smock

Country of Garment: England
Style of Garment: 14th century T-tunic smock
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
natural
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% linen
Sleeve Style: Long, fitted sleeve without buttons
Dress Closures: none
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. 2 panel T-tunic panel. Rolled hems.
Made by: Rosalie.
Documentation: 1380-1400 Tacuinum Sanitatus Casanatense

Hose

Pumpkin wool hose

Country of Garment: England
Style of Garment: 14th century woman's hose
Size: Fits shoe size 8
Garment Outer Colour:
Pumpkin
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% wool
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. London hose pattern. Rolled hems.
Made by: Rosalie.
Documentation: London hose

Red wool hose

Country of Garment
: England
Style of Garment:
14th century woman's hose
Size:
Fits shoe size 8
Garment Outer Colour:
Navy blue
Garment Outer Fabric:
Navy blue Melton wool
Decorative features, embroidery etc:
none
Construction:
Hand stitched with quilting thread. London hose pattern. Rolled hems.
Made by:
Rosalie.
Documentation: London hose

Navy wool hose

Country of Garment: England
Style of Garment: 14th century woman's hose
Size: Fits shoe size 8
Garment Outer Colour:
Navy blue
Garment Outer Fabric: Navy blue Melton wool
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. London hose pattern. Rolled hems.
Made by: Rosalie.
Documentation: London hose

Sleeves & Tippets

Blue patterned silk sleeves

Country of Garment: England, France, Italy
Style of Garment: Pin on sleeves
Garment Outer Colour:
blue with gold brocaded pattern
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% silk
Garment Lining: none
Decorative features, embroidery etc: Gold metal braid at the wrist set with fake pearls.
Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. Rolled hems.
Made by: Rosalie.
Documentation:

Red silk sleeves

Country of Garment: England
Style of Garment: Pin-on sleeves
Garment Outer Colour:
Red
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% dupion silk
Garment Lining Colour: White
Garment Lining Fabric: Silk dupion
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. Rolled hems.
Made by: Rosalie.
Documentation:

Red wool sleeves

Country of Garment: England
Style of Garment: Pin-on sleeves
Garment Outer Colour:
Red
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% Australian wool
Garment Lining Colour: Brown
Garment Lining Fabric: 100% linen
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. Rolled hems.
Made by: Rosalie.

Cream silk tippets

Country of Garment: England
Style of Garment: Tippets
Garment Outer Colour:
Cream
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% dupion silk
Decorative features, embroidery etc: None
Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread.
Made by: Rosalie.
Documentation: illumination from 1372 Bible of Charles V King of France

White silk tippets

Country of Garment: England
Style of Garment: Tippets
Garment Outer Colour:
White
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% dupion silk
Decorative features, embroidery etc: None
Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread.
Made by: Rosalie.
Documentation: illumination from 1372 Bible of Charles V King of France

White linen tippets

Country of Garment:
England
Style of Garment: Tippets
Garment Outer Colour:
White
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% linen
Decorative features, embroidery etc: None
Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread.
Made by: Rosalie.
Documentation: illumination from 1372 Bible of Charles V King of France

Copyright © Rosalie Gilbert
All text & photographs within this site are the property of Rosalie Gilbert unless stated.
Art & artifact images remain the property of the owner.
Images and text may not be copied and used without permission.