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A Look at Commercial Patterns

Many, many commercial patterns are available but most of these are a mixture of time periods designed to appeal the the Renaissance-fantasy-goth crowd. While they are great patterns, they have no place in a medieval market.

Modifications of almost ALL of the patterns below ARE NECESSARY for good results! They are included here only as a starting point for sewers. Make a practice one out of some old sheets first. For better information on how to make medieval clothes, try Sarah Thursfield's book, "Medieval Tailor's Assistant".

Patterns for adults clothing
These are a good place to start, however most of these will require modification of some kind. Some of these are fantasy, so read the notes at the side carefully. For stallholders themselves, the basic tunic with a sideless surcote for women or basic tunic and hood for men will be suitable. If you are looking to make and sell some outfits, some of the bottom patterns can be made in brocades, silks and cotton velveteens.

Ladies Dress and Surcote (above)
Burda 7977
I've included a big picture here because it's a pattern that's really got it right. Ladies, it comes in all sizes and really does look like the one pictures here. Historically, it's pretty much put together right and you'll look great. If you don't want the lacing (which can be at the back or front) just sew that seam up. There should not be lacing on your arms. Feel free to button or sew closed.
Period Patterns 21
Great historical patterns which are accurate for a number of time periods in the medieval ear. Includes surcotes and cotehardies.
Available through BLUE DRACO in Australia
Period Patterns 23
Great historical patterns for men which are accurate for a number of time periods in the medieval ear. Includes both long and short tunics of a few different styles.
Available through BLUE DRACO in Australia
Men's and Ladies Basic Tunics.
Simplicity 8108
Avoid the over-the-shoulder sash and the Roman. The others are a pretty good basic pattern. For the men, the tunic can be made long, short or anywhere in between. For the women, a round or T neckline can be decorated with embroidery or braid. Extra triangles of fabric can to put into the bottom hem seams to make the skirt wider. The dress will pull on over the head and be pulled in with a belt (either thin leather or fabric).
Dress with small hanging sleeve, Sideless surcote.
McCalls 3653
Do NOT use the blue dress. The outfit on the right is okay. The cream underdress should actually be two seperate dresses and not one dress with a fake undersleeve, but in the interests of keeping it simple, it's not too bad. It would lace at the back or pull on over the head. The red surcote would be worn over a dress with plain sleeves and doesn't need the lacing at the sides or trim around the bottom.
Cotehardie with Sideless Surcote
Simplicity 8725
I have this pattern. The basic dress (cotehardie) used a massive amount of fabric (approx 8m) for the dress alone. Sleeves are excellent. The low, wide neckline is nice. I'm really not too convinced about the placement of actual seams on this one but it's better than most. The red sideless surcote is too long. Altogether not too bad if you have nothing to work from.
Sideless Surcote & Cotehardie
Simplicity 9785
Do NOT use the red dress, it's pure fantasy. Avoid it at all costs. The yellow sideless surcote is a fair sort of pattern. Uses approx 6 metres of fabric, and the same for lining. You can make your own with less fabric. I haven't heard if the underdress pattern is a good one. Anyone out there used it? Please let me know.
Lady's 15th Century Gown
Simplicity 9929
The bottom right picture is good with some modifications. The collar needs to be fabric or fur, not lace. Fake fur usually looks dreadful, so a black cotton velveteen works well. The sleeve needs to be a straight sleeve. Usually this dress opens at the front and is laced on the inside and covered with a really, really wide belt. The V piece you see is your underdress showing, not a sewn in bit. The big picture on the left is too late for a medieval event. It's Renaissance. The picture at the top is not good.
15th Century Gown
Simplicity 9058.
A pair of 15th century gowns and hennins. Between the two patterns, you get one good dress. Start with the dress on the left, but use the sleeves from the dress on the right. The sleeves should be permanently sewn in and leave off the frills at the wrist. Do not use the big sleeves!! Again, the collar looks bad in fake fur, so use a black velveteen instead. The pointy hat (hennin) is right. Usually this dress opens at the front and is laced on the inside and covered with a really, really wide belt. The V piece you see is your underdress showing, not a sewn in bit.
Mens or womans basic tunic
Style 2313
This pattern can be found in Op shops here and there and can be used for both men and women. Widen the shoulders a little for men. Man can have a split up the front or sides. Try to keep the sleeves straight. For women, use this as either an underdress or to use as an overdress, you can widen the sleeves or keep them straight and make the bottom hem flare out to add fullness. Pull it in at the waist with a belt.
Basic T-tunics
McCalls 2060
I haven't used these but for a good basic tunic the construction seems to be pretty good. Nice in white linen for underwear or in colours for workers. Modern release and still available.

Patterns for cloaks, hoods & bags
Headwear played an important part of dressing in the middle ages. Hoods can be both plain or decorative with daggues (the bits that hand down around the bottom) and long liripipes (the long dangly bit on the hood at the back). Hoods can be made particolour- one colour on the left, another colour on the right. Cloaks tended to be plain and were functional. No crushed velvet or shiny satins please.

Cloaks
Men or women's cloak         
Simplicity 5840
ONLY the top two patterns are any good medieval wear. The bottom two are not suitable.
Hood
Mens headwear         
McCalls M4805
I believe this pattern is a bit expensive, but the hood on the top right hand side is GREAT!! This is exactly what would have been worn. You can make this pattern without the daggues and just have a straight bottom instead of the curvy one if you like.
Bags, belt & archery arm guards
Butterick 5371
Not a bad looking pattern from what I can see. The bags would hang from a belt and not over the shoulder.

Patterns for children's clothing
This covers the different brands of basic children's clothing. Pretty braids can be added to the neckline and sleeve edges for the girls. Both straight and bell sleeves are fine for girls. The basic short tunic is fine for boys. You can put a decorative celtic type braid on the hems of the boy's tunic. Use cotton/linen blends for both boys and girls or cotton velveteen/ cotton brocade for girls dresses. NO panne velvet.

Tunics for boys, dresses for girls
Simplicity 4797
The basic tunic is good for boys, and the girl's dress can be widened at the hem for a fuller dress or can have triangular gores inserted into the four seams at the bottom. Both girls and boys outfits do not have a waist seam. Don't both with the sashes and overcoats.
Tunics for boys, dresses for girls.     
Butterick 6505
The basic short tunic is good for boys, and the girl's dress can be widened at the hem for a fuller dress or can have triangular gores inserted into the four seams at the bottom. Both girls and boys outfits do not have a waist seam. Don't bother with the shoulder sash, the big round collar, (bottom left on the dark blue outfit) or the overcoat.
Tunics for boys, dresses for girls.
McCalls 2340
Pretty much everything here is right. The basic short tunic is good for boys, and the girl's dress can be widened at the hem for a fuller dress or can have triangular gores inserted into the four seams at the bottom. Both girls and boys outfits do not have a waist seam. Don't bother with the shoulder sash or the overcoats.
Girl's basic dress and boy's entire outfit.       
McCalls 2854
Only two any good here. The bigger girl's dress (top left orange one) is fine. Braid at neck and sleeves would be fine. A belt would be worn to pull it in with a little pouch hanging from it. No elastic at sleeves. Round or T neck. The boy in the bottom left corner is FABULOUS!!!!
Boy's outfit         
McCalls M3789
ONLY use the boy's outfit in the top right hand corner. It's pretty good. DO NOT use the others. They are fantasy.
Boy's outfit         
Simplicity 5512
Use the boy's outfit in the bottom right hand corner. It's pretty good. The little hooded cloak in the centre look okay. DO NOT use the others. They are fantasy or the wrong time period.


 

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