ITEMS OF CLOTHING

UNDERWEAR

THE CHEMISE

BREASTCOVERINGS

UNDERPANTS

HOSE & GARTERS

The Chemise, Shift or Smock-
The inner layer
STYLES - FABRICS - DECORATION

The chemise, shift or smock was the innermost layer of the medieval lady's dresses, much like a petticoat or slip today. It was worn next to the skin to absorb the bodily odors and keep the outer layers smelling fresher for longer. At a time when laundering of the great robes, houppelandes and kirtles which could be heavily embellished with embroidery and semiprecious stones, it was wise to keep the laundering of the outer robes to a minimum.

In 1313, Anicia atte Hegge, a widow from Hampshire, made a will on the surrendering of her holding to her son which included the stipulation that she would be provided with various items of clothing including a chemise worth 8d each year.

Styles
There appear to be three styles of chemise or smock. Contemporary illustrations usually show men and women naked in the bedchamber, but occasionally show women modestly in their underclothes. These seem to be an opaque fabric constructed with fitted sleeves and not overly shaped through the body.

The second type of chemise appears to be a strapless, petticoat-like dress. It is unclear what the exact length of garment was as the existing garment is not complete.

The artifact chemise pictured at left is dated from the 14th century. The detail shown at top right is an illumination taken from the "Wenceslas Bible", around 1390-1400. It shows two bath maids in their underclothes tending to a Wenceslas. The chemises shown there seem consistent with this second style.

The third style of chemise seems to have persisted from the 1300's through to the renaissance where it is visible through slashed clothing and at necklines. It seems unlikely that this particular style would have been favoured by the ladies who preferred the more form-fitting cotehardies, and was possibly the choice of those who preferred the more voluminous houppelandes. The artifact chemise pictured at right is dated from France in the 1300's.

In 1298 the Consol of Narbonne passed a law against laced outer dresses which allowed the pleated and embroidered underchemise to show. This tells us that at that period, at least, the chemise was pleated and also embroidered. For a law to passed, it stands to reason that it must be an occurance occuring often enough for it to be a concern.

Fabrics
It would appear that the most common fabric used for the chemise or smock are linens of varying qualities according to the social position of the wearer and the finances available. According to Francoise Piponnier and Perrine Mane in their book, "Dress In The Middle Ages", peasants and the less affluent would have worn hemp underclothes which were less expensive than linen.

In several instances we hear of noblewomen who become nuns and renounce their silken underthings. According to one written reference, a noble lady took up a hair shirt to replace her underclothes of silk as part of her penitence. This suggests that ladies of high society may have enjoyed luxurious silken underclothes.

The detail at right from 1330-40 painting "Scenes From The Life Of St John The Baptist" appears to show a fabric of reasonable weight and stiffness suggesting linen.

Decoration
Generally, the chemise during the medieval period is depicted as plain and white. Later in the Renaissance, many had blackwork embroidered at the neckline and sleeves. In the 13th century, we read a poem by an unknown author who laments the Sumptuary Laws and the restrictions on her clothing and in particular, her chemise. She says that she can no longer wear her white chemise which is richly embroidered with silk in bright colours and gold and silver. She bemoans, "Alas, I dare not wear it!" indicating not only that in her time period at least, that the chemise could be richly embroidered with silk and precious metal thread and that the Sumptuary Laws were partially effective.

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