CLOTHING PATTERNS & TUTORIALS
T- TUNIC TUTORIAL
13TH CENTURY TUNIC TUTORIAL
WIDE-SLEEVE GOWN TUTORIAL
EASY LACED GOWN TUTORIAL
OR GOWN TUTORIAL
EARLY HOOD TUTORIAL
WITH SHOULDER GORES TUTORIAL
SIDELESS SURCOTE TUTORIAL
and 15th century Medieval London Buttoned Hood Tutorial
What a medieval hood
A proper 14th century medieval hood usually has triangle gores, either
at the front or on the shoulders and a groovy, long liripipe hanging
down the back and this is a fairly easy hood to put together. It only
has 4 seams. If you line it in another colour, it has 10 seams- 4 seams
each and two to join! It can have buttons down the front or be worn
open like the picture in the manuscript.
You need: fabric, scissors, pattern (pretty sure you can get this
from online) and pins.
Right. Lie your fabric flat and open like the picture.
Now fold your fabric horizontally like this.
The top of your hood is going to go right across the top.
You can sew your liripipe as part of this, or separately.
Last minute fabric fold check!
Here's a side picture of the folded fabric to make sure you've
folded the right way.
Right! Now we are ready to start.
Position your hood pattern along the top fold of the fabric and
pin! pin! pin!
If you have a really limited amount of fabric, the dangly liripipe
at the back can be cut out separately and sewn on later.
Okay, now cut out your hood! Don't cut the dotted line or the buttonholes.
Yes, the face opening looks really long, but it's often folded or
rolled back. Your triangle gore fits in the front. It looks like
Cut the hood out and remove the excess fabric.
The line running vertically up where the shoulder goes is almost
as long as the sides if the triangle gore, but not quite.
The exact length will depend on your pattern.
If you DID cut the dangly liripipe separately, now is the time to
unfold your hood, measure half way down the back of the hood and
sew the dangly liripipe on so it looks like this.
You will have one triangle gore for each side.
Position your two pointy triangle gores so the top of the triangle
goes into the top of the cut in the fabric.
Double check you have your fabric the right way out.
Okay, pin pin pin!
When you sew your triangle gore in, do one side first. The the other
side. If you just sew up and back in one hit, you might end up with
a chunky bit at the top of the gore.
If you are hand-stitching, you will definitely want to stitch your
fabric down one side at a time, especially if you're using wool
and medieval sewing techniques.
Right! Now you have your triangle gores sewn in, it's time to join
the two sides of the hood together. Make sure your good side of
the fabric is on the inside and you are sewing the wrong side of
Sew along the red line. It's usually easier to sew upwards because
if things aren't lining up properly, you'll be adjusting the liripipe
and that's easy.
Now you're down the buttonholes and buttons.
Remember, buttonholess go horizontally at the very edge of the fabric
and they should be about 2cm or an inch apart.
You will probably have somewhere about 14 buttonholes.
To make the buttons, you just need some cloth scraps from the hood
and the MAKING
BUTTONS TUTORIAL. The tutorial will show you how to make
your own buttons. Remember, your buttons go at the very edge of
the fabric, not in from the side like we do today.
Here is my hand-stitched, 14th century wool hood. It's lined which
you can't see here, and has 13 buttonholes and buttons.
The side shoulder gores look a little wrinkly in this photo but
when I'm wearing it, it smoothes out over the shoulders.
This was a medium-weight wool twill in a herringbone stripe. I hand-dyed
the outer and left the inner a nautral wool colour.
Notes on lining
If you want to line this hood, do that before you add buttonholes. To
do that, just cut and make two identical hoods and sew them together.
Remember the good sides go together when you are sewing so when you
turn them inside out, the good fabric is on the outside where you want
Sew the two together starting at face opening and sewing all the way
around leaving a little opening to flip the hood the right way out.
Then stitch your last section closed.