home - website - blog - tutorials - bio - books - shop - contact me

my medieval clothes my headwearmy dress accessoriesmy sewing for others

My Sewing - Medieval Clothing That I've Made For Me
14th C Clothing - Underwear - Hose - Sleeves & Tippets
Things I made for me but don't have any more.

14th Century Clothing - Silk


14th century cintamani silk surcote


Country of Garment:
Franco-Flemish
Style of Garment: end of 13th century surcote
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour: blue with white clustered dots
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% cintamani silk
Garment Lining Colour: white
Garment Lining Fabric: 100% burgundy silk
Sleeve Style: No sleeves
Decorative features, embroidery etc: Wide, gold collar
Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. 4-panel pattern. Gores. Set in armholes. Rolled hems.
Documentation: Lausanne, Bibliothèque Cantonale et Universitaire. Biblia Porta folio 178r. Wide gold yoke style also seen in the Manesse Codex, 1300-1340, Germany.


14th century red silk sideless surcote


Country of Garment:
England/France
Style of Garment: 14th century sideless surcote with low armholes
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
dark red
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% dupion silk
Garment Lining Colour: mid brown
Garment Lining Fabric: 100% dupion silk
Decorative features, embroidery etc: Gold metal couched embroidery at the neckline and armholes. Flat metal woven braid with flowers at hem. Gold, rose-shaped bezants powdered with freshwater pearl clusters in crosses and roundels
Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. Rolled hems. Hand-embroidered gold embroidery.
Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. Rolled hems. Hand-embroidered gold embroidery. Silk surcote lined with silk, with gold rose bezants and pearl clusters powdered across. Gold embroidered flower hem with 440 garnets and 1890 pearl flowers and rows. Gold embroidery at neck and edges. Based on the warderobe account of Queen Phillipa's ghita.
Documentation: Effigy from Hereford Cathedral of Joanna de Bohun dated1327.


14th century cornflower sideless surcote

Country of Garment: England/France
Style of Garment: 14th century sideless surcote with low armholes
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour: mid blue
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% dupion silk
Garment Lining Colour: silver
Garment Lining Fabric: 100% dupion silk
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none at this stage.
Construction: Machined internally, to be hand stitched at a later date. Hand finished with silk thread. Rolled hems.
Documentation: Bohun Psalter, England MS Edgerton Folio 192v.


14th century red and white silk heraldic gown


Country of Garment:
France, England
Style of Garment: 14th century kirtle
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour: Red and white with red chevron
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% dupion silk
Garment Lining Colour: pink
Garment Lining Fabric: 100% dupion silk
Sleeve Style: Long, fitted sleeve with pewter buttons with red paste gems set in the centre to the elbow.
Dress Closures: Front buttoning with pewter buttons with red paste gems set in the centre. Buttons by Steve Millingham Pewter Replicas.
Decorative features, embroidery etc: Coat of arms embroidered and appliqued on the left side.
Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. 4-panel pattern. Gores. Set in armholes. Rolled hems.
Documentation: Bourbons meeting Clermont en Beauvais hunting scene

14th century silver short-sleeved silk gown

Country of Garment:
England, France
Style of Garment: 14th century kirtle
Size: modern 8
Garment Outer Colour:
Silver grey
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% dupion silk
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: Short sleeve
Dress Closures: Pewter buttons with red paste gems set in the centre. Buttons from Steve Millingham Pewter Replicas.
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. 4-panel pattern with gores. Set in armholes. Rolled hems.
Documentation: 1395-1401 Grande Bible Historiale, Johannette Ravenelle

14th century sage-green silk laced kirtle

Country of Garment:
England
Style of Garment: 14th century kirtle
Size:
Garment Outer Colour:
Sage green
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% dupion silk
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: Long, fitted sleeve without buttons
Dress Closures: Laced with lucet cord
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. 4-panel pattern. Set in armholes. Rolled hems. Hand stitched eyelets. Hand luceted lace.
Documentation: Kathryn de Mortimer effigy, Nuremberg sculpture.

14th century navy silk kirtle

Country of Garment:
England
Style of Garment: 14th century kirtle
Size: modern 8
Garment Outer Colour: Navy
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% super smooth dupion silk
Garment Lining Colour: nil
Garment Lining Fabric: nil
Sleeve Style: Long, fitted sleeve with pewter buttons with blue paste gems set in the centre to the elbow.
Dress Closures: Front buttoning with pewter buttons with blue paste gems set in the centre.
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. 4-panel pattern. 4 Gores. Set in armholes. Rolled hems.
Made by: Rosalie. Buttons by Steve Millingham Pewter Replicas.
Documentation: as per image. tba.


Early 14th century silk gowne

Country of Garment: England
Style of Garment: gowne
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
scarlet red
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% super-smooth Dupion silk
Garment Lining Colour: none
Garment Lining Fabric: none
Sleeve Style: Long sleeves with no openings
Dress Closures: none
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. Felled seams. Rolled hems.
Documentation: 14th century England, Luttrell Psalter


Early 14th century silk gowne

Country of Garment: England
Style of Garment: Early 14th century gowne
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
mid blue
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% silk
Garment Lining Colour: none
Garment Lining Fabric: none
Sleeve Style: Long sleeves with no openings
Dress Closures: Small split at throat for brooch
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Entirely hand stitched with matching blue silk thread. Felled seams. Rolled hems. Re-inforcing strip around the neckline.
Documentation 14th century England, Luttrell Psalter, Bohun Psalter


Early 14th century silk gowne

Country of Garment: England
Style of Garment: gowne
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
ice blue
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% silk
Garment Lining Colour: none
Garment Lining Fabric: none
Sleeve Style: Long sleeves with hand made silk buttons and linen re-inforcing strip.
Dress Closures: Small split at throat for brooch
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. Felled seams. Rolled hems.
Documentation 14th century England, Luttrell Psalter


Early 14th century silk gowne

Country of Garment: England
Style of Garment: gowne
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
mid brown
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% silk
Garment Lining Colour: none
Garment Lining Fabric: none
Sleeve Style: Long sleeves with no openings
Dress Closures: none
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. Felled seams. Rolled hems.
Fabric originally gold but overdyed to achieve a warm brown.
Documentation ‘Le Re´gime du corps,’ circa 1265-70. British Library, MS Sloane 2435.

14th Century Clothing - Wool


14th century checked wool kirtle

Country of Garment:
Style of Garment: 13th-14th century gown
Size: modern 8
Garment Outer Colour:

Garment Outer Fabric: 100% wool
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: Long, fitted sleeve with pewter buttons. Linen re-inforcing strip.
Dress Closures: front lacing with re-inforced linen strips and with braided cord
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. 4-panel pattern with gores. Rolled hems. Silk facing around the neckline.
Documentation: Tacuinum Sanitatus


14th century oatmeal striped weave wool kirtle


Country of Garment:
England
Style of Garment: 14th century kirtle
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
oatmeal
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% wool with woven stripe
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: Long, fitted sleeve with cloth buttons
Dress Closures: Laced with lucet cord
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with cream quilting thread. 4-panel pattern with gores. Set in armholes. Rolled hems. Hand embroidered eyelet holes and hand-made wool buttons on the sleeves..
Documentation: Kathryn de Mortimer effigy

14th century olive wool overgown

Country of Garment:
England
Style of Garment: 14th century overgown
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
olive
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% wool
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: Long, fitted sleeve with buttons to upper arm
Dress Closures: 118 cloth buttons. Buttons from neck to floor and up both arms to bicept.
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with olive silk thread. 4-panel pattern with gores. Set in armholes. Rolled hems. Hand made wool buttons. Fichets with natural white wool edges.
Documentation: Manuscript.

14th century russet wool kirtle

Country of Garment:
England
Style of Garment: 14th century kirtle
Size: modern 8
Garment Outer Colour:
russet brown
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% wool
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: Long, fitted sleeve
Dress Closures: Laced with lucet cord
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with brown quilting thread. 4-panel pattern with gores. Set in armholes. Rolled hems. Hand embroidered eyelet holes. Silk facing around the neckline, linen re-inforcing for eyelets.
Documentation: Manuscript image, 14th century

14th century mauve gown with hanging sleeves

Country of Garment:
England, France
Style of Garment: 14th century
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
Pale mauve
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% wool with woven stripe
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: Hanging sleeves
Dress Closures: Laced with lucet cord at the side
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with cream quilting thread. 4-panel pattern with gores. Set in armholes. Rolled hems. Hand embroidered eyelet holes
Documentation: Christine de Pizan presents to King Carles

14th century pale pink wool gowne

Country of Garment:
England
Style of Garment: 13th-14th century gown
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
pale pink
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% wool flannel
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: Long, fitted sleeve
Dress Closures: None
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with pink silk thread. 2-panel pattern with gores. Rolled hems. Silk facing around the neckline.
Documentation: The Bohun Psalter, MS Egerton, England Folio 65v.

14th century pale pink wool gowne


Country of Garment:
England
Style of Garment: 13th-14th century gown
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
pale blue
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% wool
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: Long, fitted sleeve
Dress Closures: None
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with grey-blue silk thread. 2-panel pattern with gores. Rolled hems. Linen facing around the neckline.
Documentation: The Romance of Alexander, marginalia catching butterflies.

14th century pale blue wool surcote

Country of Garment:
England
Style of Garment: 14th century surcote
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
Pale blue
Garment Outer Fabric: 85% wool, 15% cashmire
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: High cut armholes
Dress Closures: None
Decorative features, embroidery etc: None
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 2-panel pattern with back gore. Felled seams. Rolled hems.
Made by: Rosalie.
Documentation Ormesby Psalter, England, early 14th century. MS Douce 366 folio 55v.


14th century Mid Brown Surcote

Country of Garment: England
Style of Garment: 13th-14th century surcote
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
mid brown
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% wool flannel
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: No sleeves
Dress Closures: None
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with brown silk thread. 2-panel pattern. Rolled hems. Silk facing around the neckline. Small slit at neckline.
Documentation: 1325. Thetford Abbey, Eng. Cluney Altar Frontal.
MS Francais 241, fol. 119, Reine de Saba a Jerusalem


14th century cornflower blue wool surcote

Country of Garment:
England
Style of Garment: 14th century surcote
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
cornflower blue
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% wool
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: High cut armholes
Dress Closures: Small slit at neck which fastens with a brooch
Decorative features, embroidery etc: None
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 2-panel pattern. Felled seams. Rolled hems.
Made by: Rosalie.
Documentation: London, BL, Stowe MS 17, f. 90v, early 14th century.

14th century buttoned wool surcote

Country of Garment:
England
Style of Garment: 14th century surcote
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
red
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% wool
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: High cut armholes
Dress Closures: 4 buttons on the left shoulder
Decorative features, embroidery etc: None
Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. 2-panel pattern with back gore. Felled seams. Rolled hems.
Made by: Rosalie.
Documentation 14th century. Ormesby Psalter, Douce 366, folio55v.


14th century striped wool surcote

Country of Garment:
Germany
Style of Garment: 14th century surcote
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
mauve and green stripes
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% pure new Australian wool
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: High cut armholes
Dress Closures: None
Decorative features, embroidery etc: None
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 2-panel pattern with side gores. Felled seams. Rolled hems.
Documentation: 14th century


14th century navy blue wool surcote

Country of Garment:
England
Style of Garment: 14th century surcote
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
navy blue
Garment Outer Fabric: Melton wool
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: High cut armholes
Dress Closures: None
Decorative features, embroidery etc: None
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 2-panel pattern. Felled seams. Rolled hems.
Documentation: 14th century France, Romance of the Saint, also 15th century paintings

14th century green wool mantle

Country of Garment:
Generic
Style of Garment: 14th century mantle
Garment Outer Colour:
green
Garment Outer Fabric: Scottish wool
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Dress Closures: None
Decorative features, embroidery etc: None
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 4-panel pattern. Felled seams. Rolled hems. This was bought as a fully made cloak with hood, but was unstitched, the hood removed and the seams re-stitched by hand using traditional techniques. Two eyelets have been stitched one at each side near the neck to support a brooch.
Documentation: approx 1426 Van Eyck, The Three Marys at the Tomb.

14th century royal blue wool mantle

Country of Garment:
Generic
Style of Garment: 14th century mantle
Garment Outer Colour:
royal blue
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% wool
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Dress Closures: None
Decorative features, embroidery etc: None
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 4-panel pattern. Felled seams. Rolled hems. This was bought as a fully made cloak with hood, but was unstitched, the hood removed and the seams re-stitched by hand using traditional techniques. Two eyelets have been stitched one at each side near the neck to support a brooch.
Documentation: Mary de Bohun, the Bohun Psalter. 1380-1385

14th century tan wool mantle

Country of Garment:
Generic
Style of Garment: 14th century mantle
Garment Outer Colour:
tan
Garment Outer Fabric: wool
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Dress Closures: None
Decorative features, embroidery etc: None
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 4-panel pattern. Felled seams. Rolled hems. This was bought as a fully made cloak with hood, but was unstitched, the hood removed and the seams re-stitched by hand using traditional techniques. Two eyelets have been stitched one at each side near the neck to support a brooch.
Documentation: approx 1426 Van Eyck, The Three Marys at the Tomb.

14th Century Clothing - Linen


Early 14th century pink linen gowne

Country of Garment: England
Style of Garment: early 14th century gown
Size: modern10
Garment Outer Colour: mushroom pink
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% linen
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: Long set-in sleeves
Dress Closures: none
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 2-panel pattern. Set in armholes. Felled seams. Rolled hems.
Made by: Rosalie.
Documentation 14th century Bohun Psalter, England. Folio 65v.


Early 14th century mauve-blue linen gowne

Country of Garment: England
Style of Garment: 14th century gowne
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
mauve blue
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% linen
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: Long set-in sleeves
Dress Closures: cloth buttons
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 4-panel pattern. Felled seams. Rolled hems.
Made by: Rosalie.
Documentation
14th century manuscript


Early 14th century brown linen blend gowne

Country of Garment:
England
Style of Garment: 14th century gown
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
brown
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% linen
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: Long sleeves with no openings
Dress Closures: none
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 4-panel pattern. T-tunic pattern. Felled seams. Rolled hems.
Low neck to be hidden under kirtles and gowns
Documentation: The Morgan Bible.


Early 14th century cream linen gowne

Country of Garment:
England
Style of Garment: 13th century T-tunic
Size: modern 8-10
Garment Outer Colour:
cream
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% linen
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: Long sleeves with no openings
Dress Closures: none
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 4-panel pattern. T-tunic pattern. Felled seams. Rolled hems.
Documentation: England early 14th century, Luttrell Psalter, Ormesby Psalter 13th century Maciejowski Bible

14th century woad-blue linen gowne


Country of Garment:
England
Style of Garment: 14th century gowne
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
woad blue
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% linen
Garment Lining Colour: none
Garment Lining Fabric:
Sleeve Style: fitted fromt the elbow down
Dress Closures: None
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 4-panel T tunic pattern. Felled seams. Rolled hems.
Made by: Rosalie.
Documentation Taymouth Hours, GB. 1325-1325 Folio 058r

Natural linen gown

Country of Garment:
England
Style of Garment: 14th century gown or smock
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
natural
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% linen
Sleeve Style: Long, fitted sleeve without buttons
Dress Closures: none
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. 2 panel T-tunic panel. Rolled hems.
Documentation:1380-1400 Tacuinum Sanitatus Casanatense


Other 14th & 15th century clothing - other fabric

Crowned A sideless surcote

Country of Garment:
England/France
Style of Garment: 14th century sideless surcote with low armholes
Size: modern 12
Garment Outer Colour:
royal blue
Garment Outer Fabric: faux silk
Garment Lining Colour: white
Garment Lining Fabric: cotton
Decorative features, embroidery etc: gold Crowned A on the chest
Construction: Machined internally. Hand finished details and trims. Silk Crowned A is fell stitched to the outer then couched around the edges. Further details to add.
Documentation: Decoration is not a historically accurate.

Cream brocade sideless surcote

Country of Garment:
England/France
Style of Garment: 14th century sideless surcote with low armholes
Size: modern 12
Garment Outer Colour:
cream
Garment Outer Fabric: cotton brocade
Garment Lining Colour: none
Garment Lining Fabric: n/a
Decorative features, embroidery etc: gold braided trim set with glass garnets and faux pearls throughout. 6 large buttons with centre glass stones.
Construction: Machined internally, to be hand stitched at a later date. Hand finished details and trims. Rolled hems.
Documentation:

Champagne faux-silk gowne

Country of Garment:
England
Style of Garment: 14th century gown or smock
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
natural
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% linen
Sleeve Style: Long, fitted sleeve without buttons
Dress Closures: none
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. 2 panel T-tunic panel. Rolled hems.
Documentation:1380-1400 Tacuinum Sanitatus Casanatense

Regency

Pale blue regency gown
(overdyed since photo)

Country of Garment:
England/France
Style of Garment: Regency
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
pale blue
Garment Outer Fabric: dupion silk
Garment Lining Colour: unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: unlined
Decorative features, embroidery etc: .
Construction: Machined internally, Hand finished details and trims. Mid blue ribbons and trim.
Documentation:

Underwear

White linen smock x 3

Country of Garment:
Bohemia
Style of Garment: 14th century smock
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
white
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% linen
Sleeve Style: Long, sleeveless
Dress Closures: none
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 2 panel T-tunic panel. Rolled hems.
Documentation: 1380-1400 Bohemia, Wenceceslas Bible


Wool Hose

Navy wool hose

Country of Garment:
England
Style of Garment: 14th century woman's hose
Size: Fits shoe size 8
Garment Outer Colour:
Navy blue
Garment Outer Fabric: Navy blue Melton wool
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. London hose pattern. Rolled hems.
Documentation: London hose

Pumpkin wool hose

Country of Garment:
England
Style of Garment: 14th century woman's hose
Size: Fits shoe size 8
Garment Outer Colour:
Pumpkin
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% wool
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. London hose pattern. Rolled hems.
Documentation: London hose

Red wool hose

Country of Garment
: England
Style of Garment:
14th century woman's hose
Size:
Fits shoe size 8
Garment Outer Colour:
Navy blue
Garment Outer Fabric:
Navy blue Melton wool
Decorative features, embroidery etc:
none
Construction:
Hand stitched with quilting thread. London hose pattern. Rolled hems.
Documentation
:London hose


Pin-On Sleeves

Blue patterned silk sleeves

Country of Garment:
Europe
Style of Garment: Pin on sleeves
Garment Outer Colour:
blue with gold brocaded pattern
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% silk
Garment Lining: none
Decorative features, embroidery etc: Gold metal braid at the wrist set with fake pearls.
Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. Rolled hems.

Red silk sleeves

Country of Garment:
Europe
Style of Garment: Pin-on sleeves
Garment Outer Colour:
Red
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% dupion silk
Garment Lining Colour: White
Garment Lining Fabric: Silk dupion
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. Rolled hems.
Red wool sleeves

Country of Garment:
Europe
Style of Garment: Pin-on sleeves
Garment Outer Colour:
Red
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% Australian wool
Garment Lining Colour: Brown
Garment Lining Fabric: 100% linen
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. Rolled hems.


Things I've made for myself
which I don't have anymore

14th century false velvet sideless surcote with fur

Country of Garment:
England, France
Style of Garment: 14th century sideless surcote
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
burgundy with white fur
Garment Outer Fabric: velveteen with rabbit fur
Garment Lining Colour: natural
Garment Lining Fabric: Cotton-linen blend, satin
Decorative features, embroidery etc: Square, metal band of gems stitched down the front.
Construction: Machine stitched velveteen skirt with quilting thread. Linen blend lining. Rolled hems. Hand sewn rabbit fur upper with sateen backing all made by hand.
Donated to:
Abbey Museum of Art & Archaeology for displays
Documentation: 1403 French manuscript K106292. Eleanor of Castille effigy between 1361-1425
14th century brocade sideless surcote with fur

Country of Garment:
England, France
Style of Garment: 14th century sideless surcote
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
tan geometric brocade with white fur
Garment Outer Fabric: cotton brocade, rabbit fur
Garment Lining Colour: white
Garment Lining Fabric: satin backing fo rthe rabbit fur only.
Decorative features, embroidery etc: Square, metal band of gems stitched down the front.
Construction: Hand stitched brocade skirt with quilting thread. Rolled hems. Hand sewn rabbit fur upper with sateen backing all made by hand.
Documentation: 1403 French manuscript K106292, Eleanor of Castille effigy between 1361-1425

15th century burgundian gown

Country of Garment:
England, France
Style of Garment: Burgundian gown
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
scarlet faux-velvet
Garment Outer Fabric: cotton
Garment Lining Colour: white
Garment Lining Fabric: cotton
Closures: Hook and eye
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none.
Construction: High waisted gown with long train. Pattern based on medieval Tailor's Assistant. Hennin and black velvet cap. cotton veil shown. Machine stitched and hand finished.
Documentation:


15th century burgundian gown

Country of Garment:
England, France
Style of Garment: Burgundian gown
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
wine with wine velvet collar
Garment Outer Fabric: cotton brocade
Garment Lining Colour: off white
Garment Lining Fabric: Sahara linen
Closures: Hook and eye
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none.
Construction: High waisted gown with long train. Pattern based on Medieval Tailor's Assistant. Hennin and black velvet cap. cotton veil shown. Machine stitched and hand finished.
Documentation:

15th century burgundian gown

Country of Garment:
England, France
Style of Garment: Burgundian gown
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
green
Garment Outer Fabric: cotton velvet
Garment Lining Colour: white
Garment Lining Fabric: Sahara linen
Closures: Hook and eye
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none.
Construction: High waisted gown with long train. Pattern based on Medieval Tailor's Assistant. Hennin and black velvet cap. Lawn veil shown. Machine stitched internally and hand finished.
Documentation:

14th century peacock blue silk sideless surcote

Country of Garment:
England/France
Style of Garment: 14th century sideless surcote with low armholes
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
peacock blue
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% dupion silk
Garment Lining Colour: Pale blue
Garment Lining Fabric: 100% dupion silk
Decorative features, embroidery etc: Gold metal braid at the neckline and armholes. Flat metal woven braid with silver and gold pattern at hem. Gold thread embroidered band. Gold, rose-shaped bezants set in between the double rows of embroidery.
Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. Rolled hems. Hand-embroidered gold embroidery.
Documentation 1400-1425 Assasination of Agamemnon de Casibus. BNF Fr 226 Fol 27; 1400-9 St Jerome tempted by dancing girls.
14th century peacock blue buttoned silk kirtle

Country of Garment:
England
Style of Garment: 14th century kirtle
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
Peacock blue
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% dupion silk
Garment Lining Colour: unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: none
Sleeve Style: Long, fitted sleeves
Dress Closures: Front buttoning with pewter buttons with blue paste gems set in the centre. Buttons by Steve Millingham Pewter Replicas.
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. 4-panel pattern. Gores. Set in armholes. Rolled hems.
Documentation: artifact: late 14th century pewter milkmaid badge from London. Manuscript, Paulina and the Priest, early 15th century.

14th century wine silk laced kirtle

Country of Garment:
England
Style of Garment: 14th century kirtle
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
burgundy
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% dupion silk
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: Long, fitted sleeve without buttons
Dress Closures: Laced with lucet cord
Decorative features, embroidery etc: Gold metal braid at the neckline and wrist set with fake pearls.Three lines of gold embroidery at hem with pearls set on top of scallops.
Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. 4-panel pattern. Set in armholes. Rolled hems. Hand sewn eyelets. Hand luceted lace.
Documentation: Kathryn de Mortimer effigy, 1387 Bearosin Getting Engaged Prague

14th century blue linen blend kirtle

Country of Garment:
England, France
Style of Garment: 14th century kirtle
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
bright blue
Garment Outer Fabric: cotton-linen blend
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: Long sleeves without buttons
Dress Closures: Lucet braid front lacing
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 4-panel pattern. Set in armholes. Felled seams. Rolled hems.
Documentation: 1412-14 Duk de Berry's Les tres Riches Heures, Limbourgh Brothers, France
14th century wine kirtle

Country of Garment:
France, England
Style of Garment: 14th century kirtle
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour: wine
Garment Outer Fabric: cotton velvet
Garment Lining Colour: n/a
Garment Lining Fabric: none
Sleeve Style: Long, fitted sleeve. no buttons.
Dress Closures: Back lacing with hand stitched eyelets.
Decorative features, embroidery etc: Metal trim at the hem with fake gems set into it. Around the wrist and neckline is metal thread braid and pearls set into the spaces.
Construction: Machine sewn internally. Hand finished with quilting thread. 4-panel pattern. Set in armholes.
Documentation: Bourbons meeting Clermont en Beauvais hunting scene.
Notes: This was a very early gown, hence the incorrect back lacing.
14th century red and white heraldic gowne

Country of Garment:
France, England
Style of Garment: 14th century gown
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour: Red and white with red chevron
Garment Outer Fabric: cotton velvet
Garment Lining Colour: white
Garment Lining Fabric: cotton
Sleeve Style: Long, fitted sleeve. no buttons.
Dress Closures: Back lacing with hand stitched eyelets.
Decorative features, embroidery etc: Coat of arms embroidered and appliqued on the side.
Construction: Machine sewn internally. Hand finished with quilting thread. 4-panel pattern. Set in armholes.
Documentation: Bourbons meeting Clermont en Beauvais hunting scene.
Notes: This was a very early gown, hence the incorrect back lacing. After this was loved and worn, I turned it into a sideless surcote by taking the sleeves off, sewing up the back seam and lowering the arm openings.
14th century black wool laced kirtle

Country of Garment:
Italy
Style of Garment: 1390 kirtle
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
black
Garment Outer Fabric: Melton wool
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: Long, fitted sleeve without buttons
Dress Closures: Laced with lucet cord
Decorative features, embroidery etc: None.
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 4-panel pattern. Set in armholes. Rolled hems. Flat felled seams.
Documentation: Tacuinim Sanitatus, Tailor's Workshop


14th century mustard wool surcote

Country of Garment:
England
Style of Garment: 14th century surcote
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
bright mustard
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% pure new Australian wool
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: High cut armholes
Dress Closures: None
Decorative features, embroidery etc: None
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 2-panel pattern. Felled seams. Rolled hems.
Made by: Rosalie.
Documentation 14th century France, Romance of the Saint.


Brown short-sleeve linen kirtle

Country of Garment:
Germany
Style of Garment: 14th century short-sleeved kirtle
Size: modern 8-10
Garment Outer Colour:
mid brown
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% linen
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: Short, set-in sleeves
Dress Closures: Pewter buttons made by Bob Mackay
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 4-panel pattern. Set in armholes. Felled seams. Rolled hems.
Documentation: 1400 The Nativity


14th century pink wool kirtle

Country of Garment:
England
Style of Garment: 14th century kirtle
Size: modern 8-10
Garment Outer Colour:
pink. Colour matched to hand dyed wool with cocheneal.
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% pure Australian wool
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: Long, fitted sleeve with tin buttons
Dress Closures: buttoned at front to waist
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with pink silk thread. 4-panel pattern without gores. Set in armholes. Rolled hems.
Documentation: 1344, Romance of Alexander, statue at Bramburg (?)
Heraldic sideless surcote

Country of Garment:
England
Style of Garment: 14th century sideless surcote
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
red and white with red chevron
Garment Outer Fabric: cotton velvet
Garment Lining Colour: white
Garment Lining Fabric: cotton
Decorative features, embroidery etc: Coat of arms embroidered and appliquéd onto right side.
Construction: Machine stitched internallly with cotton thread. Hand finished. 4-panel pattern. Rolled hems. Hand embroidered roses and chevron. No fur on the surcote.
Documentation: Luttrell Psalter 1335 Geoffery Lutterell With His Wife And Daughter
Notes: Although this extended the wear of the heraldic gown which was cut down, there was alwas an issue with the neckline being a little lower than it should be for a surcote. I usually managed to hide this with a decorative hood, but eventually, I needed to make a whole new surcote, so this one was gifted to my friends at Four Horsemen Photography for their photobooth.
14th century wine silk sideless surcote

Country of Garment:
England/France
Style of Garment: 14th century sideless surcote with low armholes
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
wine-coloured
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% dupion silk
Garment Lining Colour: Cream
Garment Lining Fabric: 100% linen
Decorative features, embroidery etc: Gold metal braid at the neckline and armholes. Flat metal woven braid with silver and gold pattern at hem.
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. Rolled hems. Gored added for extra fullness at the hem.
Documentation 14th century, England, Luttrell Psalter
14th century brick red kirtle

Country of Garment:
England
Style of Garment: early 14th century T-tunic
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
dull brick red
Garment Outer Fabric: linen blend
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: Long sleeves with no openings
Dress Closures: Lacing at front
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 4-panel pattern. T-tunic pattern. Felled seams. Rolled hems. Eyelets hand stitched using quilting thread. Lucet cord for the lacing.
Documentation: 14th century and 15th cenury manuscripts.
13th century bright blue gowne

Country of Garment:
England
Style of Garment: 13th century T-tunic
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
bright blue
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% linen
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: Long sleeves with no openings
Dress Closures: none
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 4-panel pattern. T-tunic pattern. Felled seams. Rolled hems.
Documentation: England 14th century Luttrell Psalter and Ormesby Psalter, 13th century Maciejowski Bible France

 

13th century Red linen t-tunic
Country of Garment:
England
Style of Garment: 13th century T-tunic
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
red
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% linen
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: Long sleeves with no openings
Dress Closures: none
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 4-panel pattern. T-tunic pattern. Felled seams. Rolled hems.
Made by: Rosalie.
Documentation Luttrell Psalter, Ormesby Psalter, England. 13th century Maciejowski Bible, 14th century Tanuinum Sanitatus, Italy.
14th century blue linen sideless surcote

Country of Garment:
England
Style of Garment: 14th century sideless surcote
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
blue
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% linen
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: Low-cut armholes
Dress Closures: none
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 2-panel pattern. Felled seams. Rolled hems.
Documentation: 1348 Romance of the Rose, Paris,150va
14th century brick red linen sideless surcote

Country of Garment:
England
Style of Garment: 14th century sideless surcote
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
brick red
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% linen
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: Low-cut armholes
Dress Closures: none
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 2-panel pattern with gores. Felled seams. Rolled hems.
Documentation: 1348 Romance of the Rose, Paris,150va

Copyright © Rosalie Gilbert
All text & photographs within this site are the property of Rosalie Gilbert unless stated.
Art & artifact images remain the property of the owner.
Images and text may not be copied and used without permission.