Rosalie's Medieval Woman - My Sewing For Me

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my medieval clothes • my headwear • my dress accessories • my sewing for others

My Sewing - Medieval Clothing That I've Made For Me 14th C Clothing - Underwear - Hose - Sleeves & Tippets Things I made for me but don't have any more.
14th Century Clothing - Silk
14th century cintamani silk surcote Country of Garment: Franco-Flemish Style of Garment: end of 13th century surcote Size: modern 10 Garment Outer Colour: blue with white clustered dots Garment Outer Fabric: 100% cintamani silk Garment Lining Colour: white Garment Lining Fabric: 100% burgundy silk Sleeve Style: No sleeves Decorative features, embroidery etc: Wide, gold collar Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. 4-panel pattern. Gores. Set in armholes. Rolled hems. Documentation: Lausanne, Bibliothèque Cantonale et Universitaire. Biblia Porta folio 178r. Wide gold yoke style also seen in the Manesse Codex, 1300-1340, Germany.
14th century red silk sideless surcote Country of Garment: England/France Style of Garment: 14th century sideless surcote with low armholes Size: modern 10 Garment Outer Colour: dark red Garment Outer Fabric: 100% dupion silk Garment Lining Colour: mid brown Garment Lining Fabric: 100% dupion silk Decorative features, embroidery etc: Gold metal couched embroidery at the neckline and armholes. Flat metal woven braid with flowers at hem. Gold, rose-shaped bezants powdered with freshwater pearl clusters in crosses and roundels Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. Rolled hems. Hand-embroidered gold embroidery. Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. Rolled hems. Hand-embroidered gold embroidery. Silk surcote lined with silk, with gold rose bezants and pearl clusters powdered across. Gold embroidered flower hem with 440 garnets and 1890 pearl flowers and rows. Gold embroidery at neck and edges. Based on the warderobe account of Queen Phillipa's ghita. Documentation: Effigy from Hereford Cathedral of Joanna de Bohun 1327.
14th century cornflower sideless surcote Country of Garment: England/France Style of Garment: 14th century sideless surcote with low armholes Size: modern 10 Garment Outer Colour: mid blue Garment Outer Fabric: 100% dupion silk Garment Lining Colour: silver Garment Lining Fabric: 100% dupion silk Decorative features, embroidery etc: none at this stage. Construction: Machined internally, to be hand stitched at a later date. Hand finished with silk thread. Rolled hems. Documentation: Bohun Psalter, England MS Edgerton Folio 192v.
14th century red and white silk heraldic gown Country of Garment: France, England Style of Garment: 14th century kirtle Size: modern 10 Garment Outer Colour: Red and white with red chevron Garment Outer Fabric: 100% dupion silk Garment Lining Colour: pink Garment Lining Fabric: 100% dupion silk Sleeve Style: Long, fitted sleeve with pewter buttons with red paste gems set in the centre to the elbow. Dress Closures: Front buttoning with pewter buttons with red paste gems set in the centre. Buttons by Steve Millingham Pewter Replicas. Decorative features, embroidery etc: Coat of arms embroidered and appliqued on the left side. Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. 4-panel pattern. Gores. Set in armholes. Rolled hems. Documentation: Bourbons meeting Clermont en Beauvais hunting scene
14th century silver short-sleeved silk gown Country of Garment: England, France Style of Garment: 14th century kirtle Size: modern 8 Garment Outer Colour: Silver grey Garment Outer Fabric: 100% dupion silk Garment Lining Colour: Unlined Garment Lining Fabric: None Sleeve Style: Short sleeve Dress Closures: Pewter buttons with red paste gems set in the centre. Buttons from Steve Millingham Pewter Replicas. Decorative features, embroidery etc: none Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. 4-panel pattern with gores. Set in armholes. Rolled hems. Documentation: 1395-1401 Grande Bible Historiale, Johannette Ravenelle
14th century navy short-sleeve silk kirtle Country of Garment: England Style of Garment: 14th century kirtle Size: modern 8 Garment Outer Colour: Navy Garment Outer Fabric: 100% super smooth dupion silk Garment Lining Colour: nil Garment Lining Fabric: nil Sleeve Style: Long, fitted sleeve with pewter buttons with blue paste gems set in the centre to the elbow. Dress Closures: Front buttoning with pewter buttons with blue paste gems set in the centre. Decorative features, embroidery etc: none Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. 4-panel pattern. 4 Gores. Set in armholes. Rolled hems. Entirely hand stitched with blue silk thread. Made by: Rosalie. Buttons by Steve Millingham Pewter Replicas. Documentation: as per image. tba. seen worn here over a kirtle of the same colour.
14th century sage-green silk laced kirtle Country of Garment: England Style of Garment: 14th century kirtle Size: Garment Outer Colour: Sage green Garment Outer Fabric: 100% dupion silk Garment Lining Colour: Unlined Garment Lining Fabric: None Sleeve Style: Long, fitted sleeve without buttons Dress Closures: Laced with lucet cord Decorative features, embroidery etc: none Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. 4-panel pattern. Set in armholes. Rolled hems. Hand stitched eyelets. Hand luceted lace. Documentation: Kathryn de Mortimer effigy, Nuremberg sculpture.
Early 14th century silk gowne Country of Garment: England Style of Garment: gowne Size: modern 10 Garment Outer Colour: scarlet red Garment Outer Fabric: 100% super-smooth Dupion silk Garment Lining Colour: none Garment Lining Fabric: none Sleeve Style: Long sleeves with no openings Dress Closures: none Decorative features, embroidery etc: none Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. Felled seams. Rolled hems. Documentation: 14th century England, marriage scene
Early 14th century silk gowne Country of Garment: England Style of Garment: Early 14th century gowne Size: modern 10 Garment Outer Colour: mid blue Garment Outer Fabric: 100% silk Garment Lining Colour: none Garment Lining Fabric: none Sleeve Style: Long sleeves with no openings Dress Closures: Small split at throat for brooch Decorative features, embroidery etc: none Construction: Entirely hand stitched with matching blue silk thread. Felled seams. Rolled hems. Re-inforcing strip around the neckline. Documentation 14th century England, Luttrell Psalter, Bohun Psalter
Early 14th century silk gowne Country of Garment: England Style of Garment: gowne Size: modern 10 Garment Outer Colour: ice blue Garment Outer Fabric: 100% silk Garment Lining Colour: none Garment Lining Fabric: none Sleeve Style: Long sleeves with hand made silk buttons and linen re-inforcing strip. Dress Closures: Small split at throat for brooch Decorative features, embroidery etc: none Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. Felled seams. Rolled hems. Documentation 14th century England, Romance of the Rose
Early 14th century silk gowne Country of Garment: England Style of Garment: gowne Size: modern 10 Garment Outer Colour: mid brown Garment Outer Fabric: 100% silk Garment Lining Colour: none Garment Lining Fabric: none Sleeve Style: Long sleeves with no openings Dress Closures: none Decorative features, embroidery etc: none Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. Felled seams. Rolled hems. Fabric originally gold but overdyed to achieve a warm brown. Documentation ‘Le Re´gime du corps,’ circa 1265-70. British Library, MS Sloane 2435.
14th Century Clothing - Wool
14th century cornflower blue wool surcote Country of Garment: England Style of Garment: 14th century surcote Size: modern 10 Garment Outer Colour: cornflower blue Garment Outer Fabric: 100% wool Garment Lining Colour: Unlined Garment Lining Fabric: None Sleeve Style: High cut armholes Dress Closures: Small slit at neck which fastens with a brooch Decorative features, embroidery etc: None Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 2-panel pattern. Felled seams. Rolled hems. Made by: Rosalie. Documentation: London, BL, Stowe MS 17, f. 90v, early 14th century.
14th century buttoned wool surcote Country of Garment: England Style of Garment: 14th century surcote Size: modern 10 Garment Outer Colour: red Garment Outer Fabric: 100% wool Garment Lining Colour: Unlined Garment Lining Fabric: None Sleeve Style: High cut armholes Dress Closures: 4 buttons on the left shoulder Decorative features, embroidery etc: None Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. 2-panel pattern with back gore. Felled seams. Rolled hems. Made by: Rosalie. Documentation 14th century. Ormesby Psalter, Douce 366, folio55v.
14th century mid brown surcote Country of Garment: England Style of Garment: 13th-14th century surcote Size: modern 10 Garment Outer Colour: mid brown Garment Outer Fabric: 100% wool flannel Garment Lining Colour: Unlined Garment Lining Fabric: None Sleeve Style: No sleeves Dress Closures: None Decorative features, embroidery etc: none Construction: Hand stitched with brown silk thread. 2-panel pattern. Rolled hems. Silk facing around the neckline. Small slit at neckline. Documentation: 1325. Thetford Abbey, Eng. Cluney Altar Frontal. MS Francais 241, fol. 119, Reine de Saba a Jerusalem
14th century pale blue wool surcote Country of Garment: England Style of Garment: 14th century surcote Size: modern 10 Garment Outer Colour: Pale blue Garment Outer Fabric: 85% wool, 15% cashmire Garment Lining Colour: Unlined Garment Lining Fabric: None Sleeve Style: High cut armholes Dress Closures: None Decorative features, embroidery etc: None Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 2-panel pattern with back gore. Felled seams. Rolled hems. Made by: Rosalie. Documentation Ormesby Psalter, England, early 14th century. MS Douce 366 folio 55v.
14th century sand wool surcote Country of Garment: England Style of Garment: 14th century surcote Size: modern 10 Garment Outer Colour: Sand Garment Outer Fabric: 100% wool Garment Lining Colour: Cream Garment Lining Fabric: None. wool is double sided. Sleeve Style: High cut armholes Dress Closures: None Decorative features, embroidery etc: None Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. 2-panel pattern with back gore. Felled seams. Rolled hems. Small slit at throat. Made by: Rosalie. Documentation: 14th century France, Romance of the Saint.
14th century striped wool surcote Country of Garment: Germany Style of Garment: 14th century surcote Size: modern 10 Garment Outer Colour: mauve and green stripes Garment Outer Fabric: 100% pure new Australian wool Garment Lining Colour: Unlined Garment Lining Fabric: None Sleeve Style: High cut armholes Dress Closures: None Decorative features, embroidery etc: None Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 2-panel pattern with side gores. Felled seams. Rolled hems. Documentation: 14th century
14th century checked wool kirtle Country of Garment: Style of Garment: 13th-14th century gown Size: modern 8 Garment Outer Colour: Garment Outer Fabric: 100% wool Garment Lining Colour: Unlined Garment Lining Fabric: None Sleeve Style: Long, fitted sleeve with pewter buttons. Linen re-inforcing strip. Dress Closures: front lacing with re-inforced linen strips and with braided cord Decorative features, embroidery etc: none Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. 4-panel pattern with gores. Rolled hems. Silk facing around the neckline. Documentation: London finds samples of checked cloth from London deposits.Cod. Ser. n. 2644, fol. 41v: Tacuinum sanitatis: Feniculus. A woman harvesting fennel. Österreichische Nationalbibliothek - Austrian National Library. Photo by Photos by Neda.
14th century oatmeal striped weave wool kirtle Country of Garment: England Style of Garment: 14th century kirtle Size: modern 10 Garment Outer Colour: oatmeal Garment Outer Fabric: 100% wool with woven stripe Garment Lining Colour: Unlined Garment Lining Fabric: None Sleeve Style: Long, fitted sleeve with cloth buttons Dress Closures: Laced with lucet cord Decorative features, embroidery etc: none Construction: Hand stitched with cream quilting thread. 4-panel pattern with gores. Set in armholes. Rolled hems. Hand embroidered eyelet holes and hand-made wool buttons on the sleeves.. Documentation: Kathryn de Mortimer effigy
14th century russet wool kirtle Country of Garment: England Style of Garment: 14th century kirtle Size: modern 8 Garment Outer Colour: russet brown Garment Outer Fabric: 100% wool Garment Lining Colour: Unlined Garment Lining Fabric: None Sleeve Style: Long, fitted sleeve Dress Closures: Laced with lucet cord Decorative features, embroidery etc: none Construction: Hand stitched with brown quilting thread. 4-panel pattern with gores. Set in armholes. Rolled hems. Hand embroidered eyelet holes. Silk facing around the neckline, linen re-inforcing for eyelets. Documentation: Manuscript image, 14th century
14th century olive wool overgown Country of Garment: England Style of Garment: 14th century overgown Size: modern 10 Garment Outer Colour: olive Garment Outer Fabric: 100% wool Garment Lining Colour: Unlined Garment Lining Fabric: None Sleeve Style: Long, fitted sleeve with buttons to upper arm Dress Closures: 118 cloth buttons. Buttons from neck to floor and up both arms to bicept. Decorative features, embroidery etc: none Construction: Hand stitched with olive silk thread. 4-panel pattern with gores. Set in armholes. Rolled hems. Hand made wool buttons. Fichets with natural white wool edges. Documentation: Bibliotheque Nationale de France, Latin 765, fol.23r.
14th century mauve gown with hanging sleeves Country of Garment: England, France Style of Garment: 14th century Size: modern 10 Garment Outer Colour: Pale mauve Garment Outer Fabric: 100% wool with woven stripe Garment Lining Colour: Unlined Garment Lining Fabric: None Sleeve Style: Hanging sleeves Dress Closures: Laced with lucet cord at the side Decorative features, embroidery etc: none Construction: Hand stitched with cream quilting thread. 4-panel pattern with gores. Set in armholes. Rolled hems. Hand embroidered eyelet holes Documentation: Christine de Pizan presents to King Carles
14th century woad blue wool gowne Country of Garment: England Style of Garment: 13th-14th century gown Size: modern 10 Garment Outer Colour: pale blue Garment Outer Fabric: 100% wool Garment Lining Colour: Unlined Garment Lining Fabric: None Sleeve Style: Long, fitted sleeve Dress Closures: None Decorative features, embroidery etc: none Construction: Hand stitched with grey-blue silk thread. 2-panel pattern with gores. Rolled hems. Linen facing around the neckline. Documentation: Taymouth Hours, GB. 1325-1325 Folio 058r
14th century pale pink wool gowne Country of Garment: England Style of Garment: 13th-14th century gown Size: modern 10 Garment Outer Colour: pale pink Garment Outer Fabric: 100% wool flannel Garment Lining Colour: Unlined Garment Lining Fabric: None Sleeve Style: Long, fitted sleeve Dress Closures: None Decorative features, embroidery etc: none Construction: Hand stitched with pink silk thread. 2-panel pattern with gores. Rolled hems. Silk facing around the neckline. Documentation: The Bohun Psalter, MS Egerton, England Folio 65v.
14th century royal blue wool mantle Country of Garment: Generic Style of Garment: 14th century mantle Garment Outer Colour: royal blue Garment Outer Fabric: 100% wool Garment Lining Colour: Unlined Garment Lining Fabric: None Dress Closures: None Decorative features, embroidery etc: None Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 4-panel pattern. Felled seams. Rolled hems. This was bought as a fully made cloak with hood, but was unstitched, the hood removed and the seams re-stitched by hand using traditional techniques. Two eyelets have been stitched one at each side near the neck to support a brooch. Documentation: Mary de Bohun, the Bohun Psalter. 1380-1385
14th century tan wool mantle Country of Garment: Generic Style of Garment: 14th century mantle Garment Outer Colour: tan Garment Outer Fabric: wool Garment Lining Colour: Unlined Garment Lining Fabric: None Dress Closures: None Decorative features, embroidery etc: None Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 4-panel pattern. Felled seams. Rolled hems. Eyelets stitched by hand. Two eyelets have been stitched one at each side near the neck to support a brooch. Documentation: approx 1426 Van Eyck, The Three Marys at the Tomb.
14th Century Clothing - Linen
14th century pink linen laced surcote Country of Garment: England Style of Garment: 14th century surcote Size: modern 10 Garment Outer Colour: mushroom pink Garment Outer Fabric: 100% linen Garment Lining Colour: cream Garment Lining Fabric: 100% linen Sleeve Style: High set armholes Dress Closures: Side lacing with luceted laces. Decorative features, embroidery etc: 2 lines of linen thread embroidery around the sleeves, and extra scallop embroidery around the neckline. Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 2-panel pattern. Felled seams. Rolled hems. Hand sewn eyelet holes. Hand luceted laces. Made by: Rosalie. Documentation 14th century France, Romance of the Saint. Also brass of Westerley Waterless Church, Sir John and Alyne de Creke 1327
Early 14th century pink linen gowne Country of Garment: England Style of Garment: early 14th century gown Size: modern10 Garment Outer Colour: mushroom pink Garment Outer Fabric: 100% linen Garment Lining Colour: Unlined Garment Lining Fabric: None Sleeve Style: Long set-in sleeves Dress Closures: none Decorative features, embroidery etc: none Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 2-panel pattern. Set in armholes. Felled seams. Rolled hems. Made by: Rosalie. Documentation 14th century Bohun Psalter, England. Folio 65v.
Early 14th century mauve-blue linen gowne Country of Garment: England Style of Garment: 14th century gowne Size: modern 10 Garment Outer Colour: mauve blue Garment Outer Fabric: 100% linen Garment Lining Colour: Unlined Garment Lining Fabric: None Sleeve Style: Long set-in sleeves Dress Closures: cloth buttons Decorative features, embroidery etc: none Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 4-panel pattern. Felled seams. Rolled hems. Made by: Rosalie. Documentation 14th century manuscript
early 14th century natural linen gowne Country of Garment: England Style of Garment: early 14th century T-tunic Size: modern 8-10 Garment Outer Colour: natural Garment Outer Fabric: 100% linen Garment Lining Colour: Unlined Garment Lining Fabric: None Sleeve Style: Long sleeves with no openings Dress Closures: none Decorative features, embroidery etc: none Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 2-panel pattern. T-tunic pattern. Felled seams. Rolled hems. Made by: Rosalie. Documentation England 14th century Luttrell Psalter, Ormesby Psalter, 13th century Maciejowski Bible
Early 14th century brown linen blend gowne Country of Garment: England Style of Garment: 14th century gown Size: modern 10 Garment Outer Colour: brown Garment Outer Fabric: 100% linen Garment Lining Colour: Unlined Garment Lining Fabric: None Sleeve Style: Long sleeves with no openings Dress Closures: none Decorative features, embroidery etc: none Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 4-panel pattern. T-tunic pattern. Felled seams. Rolled hems. Low neck to be hidden under kirtles and gowns Documentation: The Morgan Bible.
Other 14th & 15th century clothing - other fabric
Cream brocade sideless surcote Country of Garment: England/France Style of Garment: 14th century sideless surcote with low armholes Size: modern 12 Garment Outer Colour: cream Garment Outer Fabric: cotton brocade Garment Lining Colour: none Garment Lining Fabric: n/a Decorative features, embroidery etc: gold braided trim set with glass garnets and faux pearls throughout. 6 large buttons with centre glass stones. Construction: Machined internally, to be hand stitched at a later date. Hand finished details and trims. Rolled hems. Documentation: French manuscript 14th century.
Crowned A sideless surcote Country of Garment: England/France Style of Garment: 14th century sideless surcote with low armholes Size: modern 12 Garment Outer Colour: royal blue Garment Outer Fabric: faux silk Garment Lining Colour: white Garment Lining Fabric: cotton Decorative features, embroidery etc: gold Crowned A on the chest Construction: Machined internally. Hand finished details and trims. Silk Crowned A is fell stitched to the outer then couched around the edges. Further details to add. Documentation: Decoration is not a historically accurate. Created for use at museum parade.
Brocade kirtle undergoing renovation Country of Garment: England Style of Garment: 15th century undergown Size: modern 12 Garment Outer Colour: red, gold Garment Outer Fabric: 100% cotton Sleeve Style: Long, fitted sleeve with buttons Dress Closures: eyelet lacing at side Decorative features, embroidery etc: none Construction: Made by: Made by Angela Wessling, glow up by Rosalie Gilbert. Documentation: 1390s, German Woman of the Apocalypse. To be done: back lacing changed to side lacing, buttons replaced. Neck scarf to add. To be used under sideless surcote or houppelande. The pattern isn't roundels as seen in the original, but it's similar to other patterned cloth seen in European manuscripts by van der Goes.
Champagne faux-silk gowne Country of Garment: England Style of Garment: 14th century gown or smock Size: modern 10 Garment Outer Colour: natural Garment Outer Fabric: 100% linen Sleeve Style: Long, fitted sleeve without buttons Dress Closures: none Decorative features, embroidery etc: none Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. 2 panel T-tunic panel. Rolled hems. Documentation: 14th century England. Ormesby Psalter, folio9v_detail.
Underwear
White linen smock Country of Garment: Bohemia Style of Garment: 14th century smock Size: modern 10 Garment Outer Colour: white Garment Outer Fabric: 100% linen Sleeve Style: Long, sleeveless Dress Closures: none Decorative features, embroidery etc: none Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 2 panel T-tunic panel. Rolled hems. Documentation: 1380-1400 Bohemia, Wenceceslas Bible
White linen smock No 2 Country of Garment: Bohemia Style of Garment: 14th century smock Size: modern 10 Garment Outer Colour: white Garment Outer Fabric: 100% linen Sleeve Style: sleeveless Dress Closures: none Decorative features, embroidery etc: none Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 2 panel T-tunic panel. Rolled hems. Made by: Rosalie. Documentation
White long sleeved linen smock Country of Garment: England Style of Garment: 14th century T-tunic smock Size: modern 10 Garment Outer Colour: white Garment Outer Fabric: 100% linen Sleeve Style: Long, fitted sleeve without buttons Dress Closures: none Decorative features, embroidery etc: none Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. 2 panel T-tunic panel. Rolled hems. Made by: Rosalie. Documentation The Decameron
Regency
Pale blue regency gown (overdyed since photo) Country of Garment: England/France Style of Garment: Regency Size: modern 10 Garment Outer Colour: pale blue Garment Outer Fabric: dupion silk Garment Lining Colour: unlined Garment Lining Fabric: unlined Decorative features, embroidery etc: . Construction: Machined internally, Hand finished details and trims. Mid blue ribbons and trim. Documentation:
Things I've made for myself which I don't have anymore
14th century faux velvet sideless surcote with fur Country of Garment: England, France Style of Garment: 14th century sideless surcote Size: modern 10 Garment Outer Colour: burgundy with white fur Garment Outer Fabric: velveteen with rabbit fur Garment Lining Colour: natural Garment Lining Fabric: Cotton-linen blend, satin Decorative features, embroidery etc: Square, metal band of gems stitched down the front. Construction: Machine stitched velveteen skirt with quilting thread. Linen blend lining. Rolled hems. Hand sewn rabbit fur upper with sateen backing all made by hand. Donated to: Abbey Museum of Art & Archaeology for displays Documentation: Eleanor of Castille effigy between 1361-1425. I really should have kept this and re-updated it. Still kicking myself. The under kirtle is a cotton brocade with a wrong pattern, but it was entirely hand stitched, and it was a good attempt with the knowledge I had in 2002.
14th century brocade sideless surcote with fur Country of Garment: England, France Style of Garment: 14th century sideless surcote Size: modern 10 Garment Outer Colour: tan geometric brocade with white fur Garment Outer Fabric: cotton brocade, rabbit fur Garment Lining Colour: white Garment Lining Fabric: satin backing fo rthe rabbit fur only. Decorative features, embroidery etc: Square, metal band of gems stitched down the front. Construction: Hand stitched brocade skirt with quilting thread. Rolled hems. Hand sewn rabbit fur upper with sateen backing all made by hand. Documentation: 1403 French manuscript K106292, Eleanor of Castille effigy between 1361-1425. This was a very early attempt at an upgrade. I'm still happy with how the furred part turned out and should have kept this.
14th century peacock blue silk sideless surcote Country of Garment: England/France Style of Garment: 14th century sideless surcote with low armholes Size: modern 10 Garment Outer Colour: peacock blue Garment Outer Fabric: 100% dupion silk Garment Lining Colour: Pale blue Garment Lining Fabric: 100% dupion silk Decorative features, embroidery etc: Gold metal braid at the neckline and armholes. Flat metal woven braid with silver and gold pattern at hem. Gold thread embroidered band. Gold, rose-shaped bezants set in between the double rows of embroidery. Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. Rolled hems. Hand-embroidered gold embroidery with gold brass bezants. Hem has gold metal woven braid with fake gems set at intervals. Documentation 1400-1425 Assasination of Agamemnon de Casibus. BNF Fr 226 Fol 27; also 1400-9 St Jerome tempted by dancing girls.
14th century wine silk sideless surcote Country of Garment: England/France Style of Garment: 14th century sideless surcote with low armholes Size: modern 10 Garment Outer Colour: wine-coloured Garment Outer Fabric: 100% dupion silk Garment Lining Colour: Cream Garment Lining Fabric: 100% linen Decorative features, embroidery etc: Gold metal braid at the neckline and armholes. Flat metal woven braid with silver and gold pattern at hem. Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. Rolled hems. Gored added for extra fullness at the hem. Documentation 14th century, England, Luttrell Psalter
Heraldic faux-velvet sideless surcote Country of Garment: England Style of Garment: 14th century sideless surcote Size: modern 10 Garment Outer Colour: red and white with red chevron Garment Outer Fabric: cotton velvet Garment Lining Colour: white Garment Lining Fabric: cotton Decorative features, embroidery etc: Coat of arms embroidered and appliquéd onto right side. Construction: Machine stitched internallly with cotton thread. Hand finished. 4-panel pattern. Rolled hems. Hand embroidered roses and chevron. No fur on the surcote. Documentation: Luttrell Psalter 1335 Geoffery Lutterell With His Wife And Daughter Notes: Although this extended the wear of the heraldic gown which was cut down, there was alwas an issue with the neckline being a little lower than it should be for a surcote. I usually managed to hide this with a decorative hood, but eventually, I needed to make a whole new surcote, so this one was gifted to my friends at Four Horsemen Photography for their fun photobooth.
14th century mustard wool surcote Country of Garment: England Style of Garment: 14th century surcote Size: modern 10 Garment Outer Colour: bright mustard Garment Outer Fabric: 100% pure new Australian wool Garment Lining Colour: Unlined Garment Lining Fabric: None Sleeve Style: High cut armholes Dress Closures: None Decorative features, embroidery etc: None Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 2-panel pattern. Felled seams. Rolled hems. Made by: Rosalie. Documentation 14th century France, Romance of the Saint.
14th century navy blue wool surcote Country of Garment: England Style of Garment: 14th century surcote Size: modern 10 Garment Outer Colour: navy blue Garment Outer Fabric: Melton wool Garment Lining Colour: Unlined Garment Lining Fabric: None Sleeve Style: High cut armholes Dress Closures: None Decorative features, embroidery etc: None Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 2-panel pattern. Felled seams. Rolled hems. Made by: Rosalie. Documentation 14th century France, Romance of the Saint.
14th century green wool mantle Country of Garment: Generic Style of Garment: 14th century mantle Garment Outer Colour: green Garment Outer Fabric: Scottish wool Garment Lining Colour: Unlined Garment Lining Fabric: None Dress Closures: None Decorative features, embroidery etc: None Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 4-panel pattern. Felled seams. Rolled hems. This was bought as a fully made cloak with hood, but was unstitched, the hood removed and the seams re-stitched by hand using traditional techniques. Two eyelets have been stitched one at each side near the neck to support a brooch. Documentation: Ormesby Psalter, Early 14th century. England, MS Douce 366, folio9v
15th century burgundian gown & steeple henin Country of Garment: England, France Style of Garment: Burgundian gown Size: modern 10 Garment Outer Colour: scarlet faux-velvet Garment Outer Fabric: cotton Garment Lining Colour: white Garment Lining Fabric: cotton Closures: Hook and eye Decorative features, embroidery etc: none. Construction: High waisted gown with long train. Pattern based on medieval Tailor's Assistant. Hennin and black velvet cap. cotton veil shown. Machine stitched and hand finished. Documentation: 1460 Bouts, The Ordeal By Fire I did add a black velvet collar to this, which was more in keeping with contemporary artworks.
15th century burgundian gown Country of Garment: England, France Style of Garment: Burgundian gown Size: modern 10 Garment Outer Colour: wine with wine velvet collar Garment Outer Fabric: cotton brocade Garment Lining Colour: off white Garment Lining Fabric: Sahara linen Closures: Hook and eye Decorative features, embroidery etc: none. Construction: High waisted gown with long train. Pattern based on Medieval Tailor's Assistant. Hennin and black velvet cap. cotton veil shown. Machine stitched and hand finished. Documentation: 1450 Petrus Christus, Portrait Of Female Donor, detail
15th century burgundian gown Country of Garment: England, France Style of Garment: Burgundian gown Size: modern 10 Garment Outer Colour: green Garment Outer Fabric: cotton velvet Garment Lining Colour: white Garment Lining Fabric: Sahara linen Closures: Hook and eye Decorative features, embroidery etc: none. Construction: High waisted gown with long train. Pattern based on Medieval Tailor's Assistant. Hennin and black velvet cap. Lawn veil shown. Machine stitched internally and hand finished. Documentation: 1450 Petrus Christus, Portrait Of Female Donor, detail.
14th century peacock blue buttoned silk kirtle Country of Garment: England Style of Garment: 14th century kirtle Size: modern 10 Garment Outer Colour: Peacock blue Garment Outer Fabric: 100% dupion silk Garment Lining Colour: unlined Garment Lining Fabric: none Sleeve Style: Long, fitted sleeves Dress Closures: Front buttoning with pewter buttons with blue paste gems set in the centre. Buttons by Steve Millingham Pewter Replicas. Decorative features, embroidery etc: none Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. 4-panel pattern. Gores. Set in armholes. Rolled hems. Documentation: artifact: late 14th century pewter milkmaid badge from London. Manuscript, Paulina and the Priest, early 15th century. I really loved this kirtle and only sold it because it was lightening to a peacock blue which I didn't like.
14th century wine silk laced kirtle Country of Garment: England Style of Garment: 14th century kirtle Size: modern 10 Garment Outer Colour: burgundy Garment Outer Fabric: 100% dupion silk Garment Lining Colour: Unlined Garment Lining Fabric: None Sleeve Style: Long, fitted sleeve without buttons Dress Closures: Laced with lucet cord Decorative features, embroidery etc: Gold metal braid at the neckline and wrist set with fake pearls.Three lines of gold embroidery at hem with pearls set on top of scallops. Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. 4-panel pattern. Set in armholes. Rolled hems. Hand sewn eyelets. Hand luceted lace. Documentation: Kathryn de Mortimer effigy, 1387 Bearosin Getting Engaged, Prague. I really shouldn't have sold this. I did really like it and it make a really wonderful undergown too.
14th century pink wool kirtle Country of Garment: England Style of Garment: 14th century kirtle Size: modern 8-10 Garment Outer Colour: pink. Colour matched to hand dyed wool with cocheneal. Garment Outer Fabric: 100% pure Australian wool Garment Lining Colour: Unlined Garment Lining Fabric: None Sleeve Style: Long, fitted sleeve with tin buttons Dress Closures: buttoned at front to waist Decorative features, embroidery etc: none Construction: Hand stitched with pink silk thread. 4-panel pattern without gores. Set in armholes. Rolled hems. Documentation: 1344, Romance of Alexander, statue at Bramburg (?) I really loved this but I was making another pink in a different shade, so didn't need two! It was a beautiful fit, though and it looks great on the young lady who has it now. (original photo by Four Horsemen)
14th century blue linen blend kirtle Country of Garment: England, France Style of Garment: 14th century kirtle Size: modern 10 Garment Outer Colour: bright blue Garment Outer Fabric: cotton-linen blend Garment Lining Colour: Unlined Garment Lining Fabric: None Sleeve Style: Long sleeves without buttons Dress Closures: Lucet braid front lacing Decorative features, embroidery etc: none Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 4-panel pattern. Set in armholes. Felled seams. Rolled hems. Documentation: 1412-14 Duk de Berry's Les tres Riches Heures, Limbourgh Brothers, France. I only finally passed this on as it was a linen blend, but for those blisteringly hot days, it was perfect. I'm replacing it with a 100% linen one which I have the fabric for, but haven't cut out, much less started sewing.
15th century brown short-sleeve linen kirtle Country of Garment: Germany Style of Garment: 14th century short-sleeved kirtle Size: modern 8-10 Garment Outer Colour: mid brown Garment Outer Fabric: 100% linen Garment Lining Colour: Unlined Garment Lining Fabric: None Sleeve Style: Short, set-in sleeves Dress Closures: Pewter buttons made by Bob Mackay Decorative features, embroidery etc: none Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 4-panel pattern. Set in armholes. Felled seams. Rolled hems. Documentation: I should have kept this too. It was a great fit and looked so nice on.
14th century faux-velvet wine kirtle Country of Garment: France, England Style of Garment: 14th century kirtle Size: modern 10 Garment Outer Colour: wine Garment Outer Fabric: cotton velvet Garment Lining Colour: n/a Garment Lining Fabric: none Sleeve Style: Long, fitted sleeve. no buttons. Dress Closures: Back lacing with hand stitched eyelets. Decorative features, embroidery etc: Metal trim at the hem with fake gems set into it. Around the wrist and neckline is metal thread braid and pearls set into the spaces. Construction: Machine sewn internally. Hand finished with quilting thread. 4-panel pattern. Set in armholes. Low scooped neckline with gold thread trim. Documentation: Manuscript image Notes: This was a very early gown, my very first try, hence the incorrect back lacing. It really was gorgeous, but it's been a long journey and I wouldn't wear it again, so it found a loving home with a non-re-enactor for Ye Olde Feast Days!
14th century red and white heraldic gowne Country of Garment: France, England Style of Garment: 14th century gown Size: modern 10 Garment Outer Colour: Red and white with red chevron Garment Outer Fabric: cotton velvet Garment Lining Colour: white Garment Lining Fabric: cotton Sleeve Style: Long, fitted sleeve. no buttons. Dress Closures: Back lacing with hand stitched eyelets. Decorative features, embroidery etc: Coat of arms embroidered and appliqued on the side. Construction: Machine sewn internally. Hand finished with quilting thread. 4-panel pattern. Set in armholes. Documentation: Bourbons meeting Clermont en Beauvais hunting scene. Notes: This was a very early gown, hence the incorrect back lacing. After this was loved and worn, I turned it into a sideless surcote by taking the sleeves off, sewing up the back seam and lowering the arm openings.
14th century black wool laced underkirtle Country of Garment: Italy Style of Garment: 1390 kirtle Size: modern 10 Garment Outer Colour: black Garment Outer Fabric: Melton wool blend Garment Lining Colour: Unlined Garment Lining Fabric: None Sleeve Style: Long, fitted sleeve without buttons Dress Closures: eyelets laced with lucet cord Decorative features, embroidery etc: None. Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 4-panel pattern. Set in armholes. Rolled hems. Flat felled seams. 50 eyelets at the front sewn by hand. Documentation: Tacuinim Sanitatus, Tailor's Workshop
14th century brick red kirtle Country of Garment: England Style of Garment: early 14th century T-tunic Size: modern 10 Garment Outer Colour: dull brick red Garment Outer Fabric: linen blend Garment Lining Colour: Aqua Garment Lining Fabric: 100% pure linen Sleeve Style: Long sleeves with no openings Dress Closures: Lacing at front Decorative features, embroidery etc: none Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 4-panel pattern. T-tunic pattern. Felled seams. Rolled hems. Eyelets hand stitched using quilting thread. Lucet cord for the lacing. Documentation: Based on Luttrel Psalter working women images. This was photographed for a stallholder in 2002 so excuse the accessories.
13th century bright blue gowne Country of Garment: England Style of Garment: 13th century T-tunic Size: modern 10 Garment Outer Colour: bright blue Garment Outer Fabric: 100% linen Garment Lining Colour: Unlined Garment Lining Fabric: None Sleeve Style: Long sleeves with no openings Dress Closures: none Decorative features, embroidery etc: none Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 4-panel pattern. T-tunic pattern. Felled seams. Rolled hems. Documentation: England 14th century Luttrell Psalter and Ormesby Psalter, 13th century Maciejowski Bible, France.
13th century Red linen t-tunic Country of Garment: England Style of Garment: 13th century T-tunic Size: modern 10 Garment Outer Colour: red Garment Outer Fabric: 100% linen Garment Lining Colour: Unlined Garment Lining Fabric: None Sleeve Style: Long sleeves with no openings Dress Closures: none Decorative features, embroidery etc: none Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 4-panel pattern. T-tunic pattern. Felled seams. Rolled hems. Made by: Rosalie. Documentation Luttrell Psalter, Ormesby Psalter, England. 13th century Maciejowski Bible, 14th century Tanuinum Sanitatus, Italy.
14th century blue linen sideless surcote Country of Garment: England Style of Garment: 14th century sideless surcote Size: modern 10 Garment Outer Colour: blue Garment Outer Fabric: 100% linen Garment Lining Colour: Unlined Garment Lining Fabric: None Sleeve Style: Low-cut armholes Dress Closures: none Decorative features, embroidery etc: none Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 2-panel pattern. Felled seams. Rolled hems. Documentation: 1348 Romance of the Rose, Paris,150va
14th century brick red linen sideless surcote Country of Garment: England Style of Garment: 14th century sideless surcote Size: modern 10 Garment Outer Colour: brick red Garment Outer Fabric: 100% linen Garment Lining Colour: Cream Garment Lining Fabric: 100% linen Sleeve Style: Low-cut armholes Dress Closures: none Decorative features, embroidery etc: none Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 2-panel pattern with gores. Felled seams. Rolled hems. Documentation: 1348 Romance of the Rose, Paris,150v

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