Jewellery
for women during the medieval period varied greatly between
time periods. Whilst the technology existed to make rings,
necklaces and brooches, at times certain things were
more popular than others.
Necklaces, for example, were
only in instances worn but by only by some women, in some
countries, at some times. Rings and brooches, however, were
popular right through.
When it came to luxury
items, the noble and upper class ladies shopped at the finest establishments
for high end jewellery and other fine items personally.
Shown, at left, is a detail
of Saint Agnes from c 1380 perusing a selection of jewels. The image
is engraved onto the lid of the Royal Gold Cup of the Sovereigns
of France and England in the British Museum. A wealthy medieval
woman might likewise have the opportunity to buy jewels of
this type.
Ornamentation was sometimes
attached directly to items of clothing being worn or on dress
accessories- belts, spangles, jewelled bands.
Which gemstone was selected for what piece of jewellery was
an important consideration.
According the to Trotula texts
and famed German writer, Hildegarde von Bingen, particular stones
were believed to be good for particular things, a list of
which can be found below.
Jean de Jandun, an early 14th
century writer, commented on items of jewellery available at
the markets on the bank of the river Seine.
He writes:
"On
display here were all the objects to adorn the different parts
of the human body: for the head, crowns, chaplets, and bonnets,
ivory combs for the hair, mirrors for looking at oneself,
belts for the waist, purses to suspend from them, gloves for
the hands, necklaces for the breast, and other things of this
type which I cannot list because I lack the Latin terms for
these objects."
At many times, crowns, coronets and jewelled items were worn alone
or as part of elaborate headdresses. These can be seen on the HEADWEAR
pages.
The
jewellery page is divided into five sections:
BROOCHES
Marriage brooches, pilgrim badges & cloak fasteners
RINGS
NECKLACES
Necklaces, pendants and collars
PATERNOSTERS
& ROSARIES
The church-approved fashion accessory
RELIQUARIES
Wearing your holy relics
Shown at right is a beautiful 13th - 14th century engraved gold
ring from England. The writing reads ‘AVE MARIA GRACIA’,
which is Latin for Hail Mary, Full of Grace. There are two
little flowers set one each dise, and a blue sapphire is set into
the central bezel. It is now in the hands of a private collector.
Religious jewellery
was very popular with medieval women, who felt the natural properties
of the stone were doubled when coupled with a Christian inscription.
As
the medieval period draws to an end, and the Renaissance begins,
we start to see the excesses of jewellery that rich women loved
so much!