LEATHER SHOES - FABRIC SHOES - SLIPPERS - SANDALS
- WOODEN PATTENS
Shoes were worn by all classes of
woman, even the very poor. Only the quality of the materials and
fine details varied. The purpose and basic design of the shoes
remained the same.
Margherita Datini's wardrobe in 1339 lists among her footwear,
wooden pattens with leather laces and one pair of backless
leather slippers with thick soles called pianelles. Her
regular shoes are not mentioned.
Shoe styles changed a little over the medieval period but the
general shape and features remained more or less the same.
The fashionable shoe was made to
fit the foot with an elongated piece over the big toe side of
The shoes were known in England as crackows and the shaped fronts
poulains, although many times the shoes are simply listed as poulains,
particularly by the French where it word indicated the country
of the origin of the style- Poland.
These terms indicate the medieval shows with the pointed toes.
The Museum of London have excavated a large number of these shoes
and one has been recovered complete with the moss stuffing inside
the toes. It is assumed that this stuffing provided a certain
amount of rigidness to the shoe and helped the toe retain it's
shape. The image at right shows the shoe and it's stuffing.
There were two basic methods of shoe
construction in the middle ages. The first comprised a shoe which
stitched it's upper directly onto the sole with the stitching
visible on the outside.
The other, known as a turned shoe is constructed inside
out and then turned the right way out after the sewing was completed.
A further sole could be added, but was not a necessity. In
order to turn the shoe once the stitching was completed, it was
soaked in a bucket of water until it softened enough to allow
Care was needed not to stretch the shoe out of shape or tear the
leather. Once it was dry again, the leather returned to it's original
Many medieval shoes have been excavated
from the river in London. Most are of similar shape- some with
less pointy toes and others with decorative embossing, cutwork
or tooling on the uppers. Some of these can be seen at left.
In 1313, Anicia atte Hegge, a widow
from Hampshire made a will made on the surrendering of her holding
to her son included the stipulation that, among other things,
would be provided with various items including a pair of shoes
worth 6d each year.
shoes could be decorated with cut outs and decorative tooling
Cutwork shoes are shoes with areas or patterns cut out of the
shoe upper. A number of these have been found with beautiful designs.
Images in art show that cutwork shoes were fashionable with both
men and women.
Stamping was done after the leather had been soaked in hot water
to make it soft.
Finds show several leather slippers with the same identical Tristan
and Isolde stamp, showing that they were mass-produced and not
restricted to just the elite upper class.
There is no record that I have seen of women owning or wearing
long boots similar to those worn by men in the 14th century. Certainly
townswomen and noble ladies did not seem to.
Ankle boots were possibly worn by country women and some images
in Europe show very low ankle boots. In the 12th to 14th century,
heavy shoes of undressed leather were worn by English peasants.
These were called revelins or riveling or slops and were constructed
of raw hide with the hair on the outside.
are limited existant medieval sandals, but it is possible that
they would have been worn during the warmer times of the year
just as we do today.
Shown at right is a 15th century
sandal from a London excavation made from leather. The sandal
has a bronze buckle and a strap between the toes and over the
forefoot- the design which persists today.
Many people are surprised to learn that slippers are not a modenr
invention and that they were indeed worn in the middle ages. Slippers
were worn the same as we wear them today- as a light indoor shoe.
The pinson was a 14th to 16th century light, indoor shoe
which was often furred.
detail at the left is taken from the 1485 Memling painting of
Bathsheba. It shows a naked woman getting out of her bath
and stepping into some household slippers which would not look
out of place in any modern household today. It isn't possible
to ascertain the material of the slippers themselves just by looking
at the picture.
In the household accounts of King
Edward III, there is listed a gift of clothing to a lady of Brittany,
which included eighteen pairs of leather gloves and eighteen pairs
image detail at right, The Aldolphini Wedding painted by
Jan Van Eyck in 1434, shows a pair of wooden overshoes called
Pattens were worn over the top of regular shoes or footed hose
to protect them from the elements and muddy streets. The pattens
shown here are typical of those described during the middle ages,
some having a hinged heel part, to assist with greater mobility.
The lowers were usually made of wood or cork and the upper strap
Margherita Datini, the wife of a
wealthy Italian merchant, in her 1339 household accounts, lists
among her footwear, wooden pattens with leather laces.
Existing finds of pattens vary in height, but most have a pointed
front, which lines up with the pointed toes on fashionable shoes
on the 14th century.