About Medieval Women's Clothes
Medieval clothing is an immensely broad term, covering the basic tunics of the 10th century, the cottes and bliants of the 12th and 13th centuries, the fitted kirtles, gowns and cotes of the 14th and 15th centuries to the massive surcotes, houppelands and Burgundian gowns of the later 15th century.

What I will be primarily dealing with in this website is the 14th century woman's garments- what they looked like and how they were put together. There is a little general information either side as the lower classes clothing did not differ greatly during a few hundred years. There is a little information about the clothing of other times.

The 14th century outfit comprised of many layers. The chemise or smock of fine linen was worn next to the skin along with any undergarments. The kirtle or gown, a fitted dress, was worn over that. A surcote of some kind was usually worn by women who could afford to do so, or as a fashion statement or by other women if it was cooler.

This garment could have sleeves and be almost identical to the dress which was under it, or be sideless to show off the garment underneath. For traveling, another more voluminous surcote might be added as well as a cloak.

As fabric was handmade and very expensive, clothing was seen as a status symbol- the richer the wearer, the better quality and more costly the fabric and the more voluminous the garments. Wealthier persons wore more layers, often lined with expensive furs in winter, while those with a more moderate income wore less layers which were often unlined.

Sumptuary Laws concerned themselves with expensive dress and attempted to limit the fabrics and furs which were permitted to each class of person. The laws of 1363 condemned 'outrageous and excessive apparel of diverse people, contrary to their estate and degree' and were exceedingly specific as to what fabrics and furs were permitted to whom.

These pages look at information about medieval women's clothing.

Items of clothing
What each section of clothing is called and what it is. What is the difference between a kirtle and a cote? Is there more than one type of surcote, and what is the difference? What about underwear? Did medieval wear underwear?
Dress Accessories
What dress accessories did a medieval woman have and what were they like? What were their shoes like? Did they wear gloves? Find out on these pages.

The pages which look at aspects of women's clothing generally are as follows:

They cover what buying options were available and to whom, custom made clothing, the way clothes were cleaned and stored, what the clothes were called, a look at interpreting costume when depicted in historical art and the laws made by royalty which governed what the rest of the population could and couldn't wear, down to the fabric and furs which could and couldn't be used and by whom.

Acquiring clothes
Clothes for the classes: Peasant, Working Class, Merchant Class and Noblewomen. New or second-hand? Custom made or off the rack? Where might a medieval woman get her clothes?

Clothes from historical art
Interpreting contemporary artworks to make medieval clothes today. What you see if not always what you get.

Sumptuary laws
Clothing regulations for different classes.

Glossary of clothing names
What's that clothing or accessory called? Some things are known by more than one name over different time periods or by different names in different countries.

Clothing care
How did medieval women wash their clothes? Did they wash them? Care, storage and laundering techniques of medieval clothes.

 

 

Copyright © Rosalie Gilbert
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