website shop blog tutorials noticeboard thegilbertcollection email
my medieval clothes my headwearmy dress accessoriesmy sewing for others

My Sewing:
Special Commissions I've made For Special People

Red Houppelande With Chaperon and Folly Bell Sash
Made for
Blair Martin, Something Else Entertainment

About this garment:

This is a full set of clothes-houppelande, undertunic, linens, hose, chaperon and sash.
- The undergarment is made from a brocade in gold and white.
- The houppelande itself has a circular geometric pattern woven into the fabric with gold balls and clusters of pearls sewn at intervals into the pattern. The amount of time it took to sew the pearls onto the garment was quite time-consuming, but well worth the effect in the end result.
- It has long, wide sleeves typical of the style, which are lined with bright blue satin. The sleeves terminate in a large, gold bell also.
- The hem has rectangular daggues with small, gold bells sewn onto each point of the rectangles- eg two per daggue.
- The folly bell sash has two rows of bells.
- The sash itself is made from gold metal braid stitched onto a backing and clasped at the lower hip with a brooch.
- The chaperon is made of the same brocaded geometric fabric.
- Not visible, hose, breeches and linen sherte.

14th Century Silk Miparti Cotehardie
Made for Rosalie's Medieval Woman


About this garment:
- Style of garment was worn in England, France, Europe
- Basic Style of Garment: Cotehardie
- Style of garment worn by upper class men
- This is 100% silk fitted cotehardie in silver grey and black.
- It is fully lined with 100% silk
- Hand stitched inside and out.
- The sleeves buttoned to the elbow, with hand-stitched buttonholes in silk thread.
- Matching pewter buttons run the entire of the front.
- The hem has a scalloped design.
- White silk tippets hand sewn with silk thread.
- Black wool-blend hood with silver fleur-de-lys spangles.
- Design based on mid 14th century manuscripts.

13th Century Tunic For A Musician
Made for
Paula O'Donnel, Miri Medieval

About this garment:
- This style of garment was worn in England, France, Europe.
- Style is T-Tunic.
- 100% wools sourced from overseas in olive and floral wools.
- Hand finished. (Can't remember if it's hand stitched entirely)
- Sleeves short enough to allow for playing musical instruments.
- Basic T-Tunic pattern.
- Sleeves and hem have feature woven band circling them.
- Length to allow for ease of movement as a wandering musician.
- Based on designs from the 12th century manuscript, Cantigade Santa Maria
13th Century Tunic For A Musician
Made for
Paula O'Donnel, Miri Medieval

About this garment:
- This style of garment was worn in England, France, Europe.
- Style is T-Tunic.
- 100% wool sourced from overseas in lightweight aqua wool.
- Hand finished. (Can't remember if it's hand stitched entirely)
- Medium wide sleeves short enough to allow for playing musical instruments.
- Basic T-Tunic pattern.
- Sleeves and hem are hand stitched.
- Length to allow for ease of movement as a wandering musician.
- Based on designs from the 12th century manuscript, Cantigade Santa Maria
14th century brown wool gown
Made for Nigel Hendersen, Husaria Australia


About this garment:

- This style of garment was worn in England, France, Europe.
- Basic Style of Garment: Loose gown/early houppehande..
- Worn by both upper and working classes.
- Garment outer is a brown wool.
- Garment is unlined.
- The sleeves are loose around the shoulders and fitted at the forearms.
- There are 2 buttons at the front.
- There are no decorative features or embroidery.
- The gown is hand stitched entirely with quilting thread. Hand finished. Rolled hems.
- Typical four seam, shaped construction- front, back and sides.
- It has set in shaped armholes.
- Hand stitched neck with a rolled seam and facing in linen..
- Documentation from the 14th century Manesse Codex



14th century peacock blue silk sideless surcote
Made for Pavi Mastonen

About this garment :
- This style of garment was worn in England, France, Europe.
- Style of garment is sideless surcote.
- Worn by upper classes and nobles.
- Surcote outer is a 100% pure dark blue silk and is lined with 100% apple green silk.
- The hem is hand stitched with silk thread..
- The surcote is hand stitched entirely with silk thread.
- Typical 3 seam construction with side and back gores added for fullness.
- It has deep, low shaped armholes.
- Documentation from 1360 German manuscript. Also as seen in the Luttrell Psalter, chess scene, England. 1400-1425 Assasination of Agamemnon de Casibus. BNF Fr 226 Fol 27; 1400-9 St Jerome tempted by dancing girls. Manuscript dated 1403, Virgo.

14th Century Silk Peacock Blue Kirtle
Made for Larissa Wicks as her bridal gown


About this garment:
This was a very special job because it needed to do a dual function- be a wedding dress for my friend in a Scottish themed medieval wedding and still be an accurate 14th century kirtle afterwards. The sash in the photo here is from a medieval banquet.

- Style of garment was worn in England, France, Europe
- Basic Style of Garment: kirtle
- Style of garment worn by upper class noble women.
- 100% silk, unlined.
- Hand finished (can't remember if it's hand stitched inside and out)
- Blue was chosen as a suitable medieval colour for a medieval wedding.
- Back laced gown (for the wedding)
- Set in sleeves which were hand finished.
- Hem hand stitched with a rolled hem.
- Based on many images from manuscripts from the 14th and early 15th centuries.
15th century, French, Boccaccio, de Claris Mulieribus, Thamar Painting
Brocade Kirtle & Gold Silk Sideless Surcote
Made for Edith Cuffe, CEO Abbey Museum of Art & Archaeology


About these garments :

- This style of garment was worn in England, France, Europe.
- Basic Style of Garments, kirtle and sideless surcote.
- Worn by upper classes and nobles.
- Kirtle is gold, brocaded fabric, made in 4 seam construction
- The kirtle is front lacing and has matching hand made lucet cord.
- Surcote outer is a 100% pure silk and is lined with 100% white silk.
- The hem features a patterned gold metal thread braid with real garnets set into it.
- The surcote is hand stitched entirely with silk thread. Hand finished
- Typical 3 seam construction with gores added for fullness.
- It has deep, low shaped armholes.
- Documentation from 1360 German manuscript. Also as seen in the Luttrell Psalter, chess scene, England.

Salmon Silk Cotehardie With Buttons
Made for Rosalie's Medieval Woman- Tailor's Workshop sample


About this garment:
- Style of garment was worn in England, France, Europe
- Basic Style of Garment: Cotehardie
- Style of garment worn by upper class men.
- Cotehardie outer is a 100% pure salmon pink.
- Garment Lining is 100% pure silk.
- The sleeves are straight sleeves with buttons
- The buttons are hand cast pewter buttons set with garnets in the centre.
- There are no decorative features or embroidery.
- The cotehardie is hand stitched with 100% silk thread. Hand finished. Rolled hems.
- Typical four seam, shaped construction- front, back and sides with set in shaped armholes.
- Hand stitched buttonholes with silk thread.
Wide Sleeve Late 14th Century Gown
Made for Andrew Fraser, Modern Medieval Man, Ex Libris.


About this garment:

- Style of garment was worn in England, France, Europe
- Basic Style of Garment: gown.
- This style of garment was worn by upper and middle class men.
- Gown outer is a 100% pure purple linen.
- Garment Lining is red linen.
- The sleeves are wide and turn back over at the wrist.
- There are no buttons.
- There are no decorative features or embroidery.
- Neckline is round with a small vertical slit at the neck centre.
- The gown is hand finished with quilting thread. Rolled hems.
- Typical four seam, shaped construction- front, back and sides.
- It has set in shaped armholes.
- Documentation 14th century, Italy, Tacuinum Sanitatus.

Black Velvet Houppelande and Chaperon
Made for Michael Strong,
Archaeologist & Director, Abbey Museum of Art & Archaeology


About this garment:

This is a matching set of houppelande and chaperon.

- Style of garment was worn in England, France, Europe.
- This garment was worn by upper class men.
- The houppelande is made from a black cotton velvet.
- The lining is natural linen blend.
- It has long, wide sleeves typical of the style, which are lined with linen.
- It is constructed in a four panel pattern for the body.
- The hem is hand stitched.
- The chaperon is made of the same black cotton velvet fabric and has a long liripipe..
- There is a silver owl badge stitched to the chaperon.
- Originally this garment had borders of reproduction fur, but it really was extremely unconvincing, so I removed it.
Wide Sleeve 15th Century Gown
Made for Biscoti Archery


About this garment:

- Style of garment was worn in England, France, Europe.
- This style of garment was worn by upper and middle class men.
- Gown outer is a cotton faux velvet.
- Garment Lining is white sahara linen.
- The sleeves are wide and turn back over at the wrist.
- There are no buttons.
- There are no decorative features or embroidery.
- Neckline is round with a small vertical slit at the neck centre.
- The gown is hand finished with quilting thread. Rolled hems.
- Typical four seam, shaped construction- front, back and sides.
- It has set in shaped armholes.
- Documentation
Brocade Sideless Surcote
Made for Abbey Medieval Festival Opening Ceremony


About these garments :

- This style of garment was worn in England, France, Europe.
- Basic Style of Garment, sideless surcote.
- Worn by upper classes and nobles.
- Kirtle is model's own.
- Surcote outer is a 100% cotton brocade and is unlined
- The surcote is machine sewn internally and hand finished
- Typical 3 seam construction with gores added for fullness.
- It has deep, low shaped armholes.
- No decorative features at this stage.
- Documentation from 1360 German manuscript. Also as seen in the Luttrell Psalter, chess scene, England and many other manuscripts.
Grey Brocade Short-sleeve Kirtle
Made for Karis to loan. Not a re-enactment garment.


About this garment:

- This style of garment was worn in Europe.
- Basic Style of Garment: Upper class kirtle.
- Kirtle outer is a grey and black brocade.
- Garment is lined with white cotton.
- The sleeves are to the elbows and are worn with tippets.
- The eyelets down the front are hand sewn.
- The lacing cord is made with a lucet.
- There are no decorative features or embroidery.
- The kirtle is hand finished entirely with quilting thread. Rolled hems.
- Typical four seam, shaped construction- front, back and sides.
- It has set in shaped armholes.
- Inspired by14th century Romance of the Rose showing patterned kirtles, although the gowns are likely to have hanging sleeves rather than seperate tippets.

Dark Green Velvet Kirtle
Made for:
Kate

About this garment:

- This style of garment was worn in England, France, Europe.
- Basic Style of Garment: kirtle
- Kirtle outer is a cotton velvet in deep green.
- Garment is unlined from memory.
- The sleeves are straight sleeves with no buttons.
- The eyelets down the back are hand sewn.
- There are no decorative features or embroidery.
- The kirtle is hand finished entirely with quilting thread. Rolled hems.
- Typical three seam, shaped construction- front, back and sides.
- It has set in shaped armholes.
- Documentation from 14th century painting, The Nativity
- This particular gown was asked to be made back lacing.

Dark Blue Velvet Kirtle
Made for Leisa Ryan, Musician & Artist


About this garment:

- This style of garment was worn in England, France, Europe.
- Basic Style of Garment: kirtle
- Kirtle outer is a cotton velvet in deep blue.
- Garment is unlined.
- The sleeves are straight sleeves with no buttons.
- The eyelets down the front are hand sewn.
- The lacing cord is made with a lucet.
- There are no decorative features or embroidery.
- The kirtle is hand finished entirely with quilting thread. Rolled hems.
- Typical four seam, shaped construction- front, back and sides.
- It has set in shaped armholes.
- Documentation from 14th century painting, Christine Pisan

Scarlet Red Velvet Kirtle
Made for Jo, Medieval Musician


About this garment:

- This style of garment was worn in England, France, Europe.
- Basic Style of Garment: kirtle
- Kirtle outer is a cotton velvet in scarlet red.
- Garment is unlined.
- The sleeves are straight sleeves with no buttons.
- The eyelets down the front are hand sewn.
- The lacing cord is made with a lucet.
- There are no decorative features or embroidery.
- The kirtle is hand finished entirely with quilting thread. Rolled hems.
- Typical four seam, shaped construction- front, back and sides.
- It has set in shaped armholes.
- Documentation from 15th century French manuscript by Boccaccio, de Claris Mulieribus, Festival Of Flora


Red Diaper Linen Kirtle
Made for Jen Buchannen


About this garment:

- This style of garment was worn in England, France, Europe.
- Basic Style of Garment: working-class kirtle
- Kirtle outer is a red linen with a diaper pattern.
- Garment is unlined.
- The sleeves are straight sleeves with no buttons.
- The eyelets down the front are hand sewn.
- The lacing cord is made with a lucet.
- There are no decorative features or embroidery.
- The kirtle is hand finished entirely with quilting thread. Rolled hems.
- Typical four seam, shaped construction- front, back and sides.
- It has set in shaped armholes.
- Documentation from 15th century French manuscript by Boccaccio, de Claris Mulieribus, Festival Of Flora
Wide Sleeve Gown With Silk Lined Sleeves
Made for Kim Schoenberger, Ceramic Artist


About this garment:

- This style of garment was worn in England, France, Europe.
- Basic Style of Garment: early 14th century gown
- Garment outer is a 100% pure linen in chocolate brown.
- Sleeves are lined with a delicate pale patterned pink silk.
- The sleeves are wide and turn back at the cuff.
- There are no closures. The garment slips on over the head.
- There are no decorative features or embroidery.
- The cotehardie is hand finished entirely with quilting thread. Rolled hems.
- Two seam, shaped construction- seams at sides only.
- It has a round neckline.
- Documentation from Italy, Tacuinum Sanitatus.
- As a stallholder and business owner, Kim wanted something pracrtical and loose but dressed up just a little bit to show that she is the owner of the business, not just one of the staff. The touch of silk lining achieved this for her.
Brown Wool Cotehardie With Buttons
Made for Rosalie's Medieval Woman
- Tailor's Apprentice

About this garment:

- This style of garment was worn in England, France, Europe.
- Basic Style of Garment: Cotehardie
- Worn by both upper and working classes.
- Cotehardie outer is a 85% Melton wool blend in chocolate brown.
- Garment is lined with 100% olive linen.
- The sleeves are straight sleeves with no buttons at this stage.
- The buttons down the front closure are hand made from matching wool.
- There are no decorative features or embroidery.
- The cotehardie is hand stitched entirely with quilting thread. Hand finished. Rolled hems.
- Typical four seam, shaped construction- front, back and sides.
- It has set in shaped armholes.
- Hand stitched buttonholes with silk thread.
- Documentation from 1348 Romance of the Rose Paris,5v
Linen Working Class Gown
Made for Rosalie's Medieval Woman


About this garment:

- This style of garment was worn in England, France, Europe.
- Basic Style of Garment: T-Tunic.
- Worn by working classes.
- Garment outer is a linen blend in bright blue..
- Garment is lined with a white linen blend
- The sleeves are straight sleeves with no buttons.
- The buttons down the front closure are hand made from matching wool.
- There are no decorative features or embroidery.
- The T-Tunic is hand stitched entirely with quilting thread. Hand finished. Rolled hems.
- Typical four seam, shaped construction- front, back and sides..
- There are no buttonholes.
- Documentation from the 14th century Galston Psalter
Pink Linen Gown With Bag Sleeves
Made for Rosalie's Medieval Woman


About this garment:

- This style of garment was worn in England, France, Europe.
- Basic Style of Garment: Loose gown.
- Worn by both upper and working classes.
- Garment outer is a 100% pure linen in mushroom pink.
- Garment is unlined.
- The sleeves are bag sleeves with no buttons.
- There are no buttons or closures at the front or neck.
- There are no decorative features or embroidery.
- The gown is hand stitched entirely with quilting thread. Hand finished. Rolled hems.
- Typical four seam, shaped construction- front, back and sides.
- It has set in shaped armholes.
- Hand stitched neck with a rolled seam.
- Documentation from the 14th century Tacuinum Sanitatus, Tailor's Workshop
Brown Wool Gown
Made for Rosalie's Medieval Woman


About this garment:

- This style of garment was worn in England, France, Europe.
- Basic Style of Garment: Loose gown.
- Worn by both upper and working classes.
- Garment outer is a brown, 85% wool blend.
- Garment is unlined.
- The sleeves are loose with no buttons and can be pushed up the arm.
- There are 2 buttons at the front.
- There are no decorative features or embroidery.
- The gown is hand stitched entirely with quilting thread. Hand finished. Rolled hems.
- Typical four seam, shaped construction- front, back and sides.
- It has set in shaped armholes.
- Hand stitched neck with a rolled seam.
- Documentation from the 14th century Tacuinum Sanitatus, Tailor's Workshop

Navy Blue Linen Gown With Bag Sleeves
Made for Rosalie's Medieval Woman


About this garment:

- This style of garment was worn in England, France, Europe.
- Basic Style of Garment: Loose gown reaching just below the knees.
- Worn by both upper and working classes.
- Garment outer is a 100% pure linen in navy blue.
- Garment is lined with blue linen.
- The sleeves are bag sleeves with no buttons.
- There are hand stitched buttonholes down the entire front closure.
- Pewter buttons made by Bob, Brisbane.
- There are no decorative features or embroidery.
- The gown is hand stitched entirely with quilting thread. Hand finished. Rolled hems.
- Typical four seam, shaped construction- front, back and sides.
- It has set in shaped armholes.
- Hand stitched neck with a rolled seam.
- Documentation from the 14th century Tacuinum Sanitatus, Tailor's Workshop

Blue Linen Working Class T-Tunic
Made for Rosalie's Medieval Woman


About this garment:

- This style of garment was worn in England, France, Europe.
- Basic Style of Garment: T-Tunic.
- Worn by working classes.
- Garment outer is 100% linen in mid-blue.
- Garment is lined with a white linen blend
- The sleeves are straight sleeves with no buttons.
- There are no decorative features or embroidery.
- The T-Tunic is hand stitched entirely with quilting thread. Hand finished. Rolled hems.
- Typical four seam, shaped construction- front, back and sides..
- There are no buttonholes.
- Documentation from the Luttrell Psalter, 14th century
Brick-red Linen Working Class T-Tunic
Made for Rosalie's Medieval Woman


About this garment:

- This style of garment was worn in England, France, Europe.
- Basic Style of Garment: T-Tunic.
- Worn by working classes.
- Garment outer is 100% linen in brick-red.
- Garment is lined with a white linen blend
- The sleeves are straight sleeves with no buttons.
- There are no decorative features or embroidery.
- The T-Tunic is hand stitched entirely with quilting thread. Hand finished. Rolled hems.
- Typical four seam, shaped construction- front, back and sides..
- There are no buttonholes.
- Documentation from the Manesse Codex, 14th century
Black Wool Hood With Embroidery
Made for Melissa Hansell
as a Welcome Baby Gift

About this item:

- Worn in England, France, Europe.
- Time period is 14th century.
- Type of garment is hood with long cowl and tippet.
- Outer is made from black Melton wool.
- Lining is made from 100% linen in apple green.
- Decorative features include embroidery- double lines with triangles in the middle and a further two lines above.
- Hood is hand stitched with quilting thread. Based on existing hood patterns. No closures.
- Based on a design from an ivory mirror back, France, 14th century.
Tan Wool Hood With Daggues
Made for Ben
as an Engagement gift

About this item:

- Worn in England, France, Europe.
- Time period is 14th century.
- Type of garment is hood with long cowl and tippet.
- Outer is made from tan wool.
- No lining.
- Decorative features include oakleaf daggues
- Hood is hand stitched with cotton thread. Based on existing hood patterns. No closures.
- Based on Guillaume de Machaut, The Cure of Ill Fortune, 1350-1355, France.
Green and white silk hood
Made for Lauren Ball as a Wedding gift

About this item:

- Worn in England, France, Europe.
- Time period is 14th century.
- Type of garment is hood with long cowl and tippet.
- Outer is made from 100% emerald green silk.
- Lining is made from 100% white silk.
- Decorative features include silk embroidery- two lines and a line of scallops, silver-plated fleur-de-lys set in between.
- Hood is hand stitched with silk thread. Based on existing hood patterns. No closures.
- Based on Romance of the Rose, 14th century.
Scarlet and pale blue silk hood
Made for Ben Marshall as a Wedding gift

About this item:

- Worn in England, France, Europe.
- Time period is 14th century.
- Type of garment is hood with long cowl and tippet.
- Outer is made from 100% scarlet silk.
- Lining is made from 100% pale blue silk.
- Decorative features include silk embroidery- two lines and a line of scallops.
- Hood is hand stitched with silk thread. Based on existing hood patterns. No closures.
- Based on
Peaked Cap with Peacock Feather
Made for Rosalie's Medieval Woman


About this item:

- Worn in England, France, Europe.
- Time period is 14th century.
- Type of garment is a peaked cap, often called a bycocket.
- Outer is made from geometric patterned fabric
- Lining is made from black silk which turns up at the sides.
- There are no decorate features, but it is designed to be worn with a badge and a peacock feather.
- Hood is hand finished with quilting thread.
- Based on a design from the Manesse Codex, Germany, 14th century.
Fillet With Metal Thread And Pearls
Made for Melissa Hansell as a Welcome Baby Gift

About this item:

- Worn in England, France, Europe.
- Time period is 14th century.
- Type of garment is a fillet or circlet.
- The outer is made from a woven band with a geometric pattern in gold thread.
- Decorative features include pearls of 2 sizes set into the pattern and also along the base of the fillet.
- Hand constructed and hand stitched.
- Based on the bust of St Ursula, Basel Cathedral Treasury, Basel. early 14thc
Silk Fillet With Metal Thread And Pearls
Made for Lauren Ball as an Engagement gift

About this item:

- Worn in England, France, Europe.
- Time period is 14th century.
- Type of garment is a fillet or circlet.
- The outer is made from a woven band with a geometric pattern in gold thread.
- Decorative features include pearls of 2 sizes set into the pattern and also along the base of the fillet.
- Hand constructed and hand stitched.
- Based on a stained glass window, Early 14th century, Elizabeth de Burgh, 4th Countess of Ulster
Blue Silk Tasselled Drawstring Bag
Made for Julie-Maree


About this garment:

- Country of origin: England, France, Europe
- Style is seen in manuscripts throughout the medieval period.
- Type of accessory: drawstring bag.
- Outer is bright blue, 100% silk.
- Lining colour: white.
- Hand finished with silk thread.
- Drawstring is constructed from red thread using a lucet.
- Strings double across the top and are stitched along the sides to form a suspension loop.
- Four gold tassels are along the bottom and a further two on each othe the drawstrings.
Silver Green Geometric Patterned Silk Drawstring Bag
Made for Jenni


About this garment:

- Country of origin: England, France, Europe
- Style is seen in manuscripts throughout the medieval period.
- Type of accessory: drawstring bag.
- Outer is silver green in 100% patterned silk.
- Lining colour: white
- Hand finished with silk thread.
- Drawstring is constructed from red thread using a lucet.
- Strings double across the top and are stitched along the sides to form a suspension loop.
- Four gold and white tassels are along the bottom and a further two on each ot he the drawstrings.

 

Copyright © Rosalie Gilbert
All text & photographs within this site are the property of Rosalie Gilbert unless stated.
Art & artifact images remain the property of the owner.
Images and text may not be copied and used without permission.