website shop blog tutorials noticeboard thegilbertcollection email
my medieval clothes my headwearmy dress accessoriesmy sewing for others

My Sewing: Headwear That I've made For Me
Headpieces - Circlets - Hoods - Veils & Wimples - Barbettes & fillets - Coifs


Headpieces

Red silk templers with pewter coronet

Country of Origin: England, France
Time period: late 14th-15th century
Basic Style of Headwear: Circlet/Coronet
Outer Colour/colours: Dark red, silver
Fabric: Silk
Construction Materials: Metal, fabric, false hair, gemstones
Metal: Pewter
Details of Gemstones & Pearls: Garnets, freshwater pearls (sm & large)
Details of Embroidery, Thread, Trim etc: Quilting cotton
Made by: Rosalie using pre-bought coronet
Documentation: Isabeau de Baviere



Circlets & fillets

Brass and gilded circlet set with precious gems

Country of Origin:
England France Europe
Time period: 14th century
Basic Style of Headwear: Circlet/Coronet
Outer Colour/colours: Gold
Lining Fabric: Leather
Construction Material: Brass, garnets, freshwater pearls, gold-plated roses
Metal: Brass for main circlet
Construction: Solid brass circlet with gold roses set with fresh water pearls evenly spaced among clusters of flowers made from settings with freshwater pearls and garnet centres. Lined with leather.
Made by: Rosalie Gilbert
Documentation 14th century artifact. Manuscripts, Bohemia etc
Green patterned silk circlet with pearls

Country of Garment:
England/Europe
Time Period: 14th century
Type of Garment:
Fillet
Outer Colour: silver-green
Outer Fabric: patterned silk
Lining Colour: black
Lining Fabric: wool felt
Decorative features: garnet beads, freshwater pearls of 2 sizes forming an oval pattern. Freshwater pearls individually stitched at the top and along the crown.
Construction method: Hand constructed and hand stitched.
Documentation: 1250 Cathedral of St Catherine and Maurice Germany
Scarlet silk fillet with gold roses

Country of Garment:
England & Europe
Time Period: 13-15th century
Type of Garment:
Fillet
Outer Colour: Scarlet
Outer Fabric: 100% Dupion silk
Decorative features: Brass roses stitched at intervals around the entire circlet
Construction method: Hand stitched with scarlet silk thread onto a woven band.
Documentation: Luttrell Psalter, 14th century. England. chess scene. + others

Cream felt and pearl fillet

Country of Garment:
England/Europe
Time Period: 14th century
Type of Garment:
Fillet
Outer Colour: Cream
Outer Fabric: Wool felt
Lining Colour: Cream
Lining Fabric: Wool felt
Decorative features: Freshwater pearls sewn in a cross formation, Gold braid stitched at the bottom with freshwater pearls hand stitched into each segment.
Construction method: Hand constructed and hand stitched.
Documentation: 1250 Cathedral of St Catherine and Maurice Germany


Hoods - Silk

Gold and white silk hood

Country of Garment: England
Time Period: Late 14th century
Type of Garment:
Hood with rectangular daggues
Outer Colour: Gold
Outer Fabric: Silk
Lining Colour: White
Lining Fabric: Silk
Closures: No closures
Decorative features: Silk embroidery- two lines and a line of scallops, gold plated brass roses on points.
Construction method: Hand stitched with silk thread. Based on existing hood patterns.
Documentation: Embroidery from the Romance of Alexander, France, 14th century

Blue and white daggued silk hood

Country of Garment: England
Time Period: Late 14th century
Type of Garment:
Hood with rectangular daggues
Outer Colour: Peacock blue
Outer Fabric: Silk
Lining Colour: Off white
Lining Fabric: Silk
Closures: No closures
Decorative features: Silk embroidery- 2 sets of two lines above the daggues. Silk embroidery around the daggue edges.
Construction method: Hand stitched with silk thread. Based on existing hood patterns.
Documentation: 14th century, Romance of Alexander.

Silver silk hood with embroidery

Country of Garment: England
Time Period: Late 14th century
Type of Garment:
Hood with embroidery
Outer Colour: Silver
Outer Fabric: Silk
Lining Colour: blue
Lining Fabric: Silk
Closures: No closures
Decorative features: Silk embroidery- two lines and a line of scallops
Construction method: Hand stitched with silk thread. Based on existing hood patterns.
Documentation: Embroidery from the Romance of Alexander, France, 14th century



Hoods - Wool

Brown wool hood

Country of Garment: England
Time Period: 14th century
Type of Garment:
Hood
Outer Colour: Brown
Outer Fabric: 100% wool
Lining Colour: Pale pink
Lining Fabric: Linen
Closures: No closures
Decorative features: none
Construction method: Hand stitched with silk thread. Based on existing hood patterns with a front gore.
Documentation: Bohun Psalter, England

Black wool buttoned hood

Country of Garment: England
Time Period: Late 14th century
Type of Garment:
Hood with rounded small tippet
Outer Colour: black
Outer Fabric: Wool
Lining Colour: white
Lining Fabric: linen
Closures: pewter buttons reproductions from the Abbey Museum of Art and Archaeology
Decorative features: none
Construction method: Hand stitched with quilting thread. Based on existing hood patterns with shoulder gore. Buttonholes are hand stitched
Documentation: Luttrell Psalter 1345, England. Month of February, Duk du Berry Book of Hours 1402, France.

Olive wool hood with embroidery

Country of Garment: England, France
Time Period: Late 14th century
Type of Garment:
Hood with tippet
Outer Colour: Olive
Outer Fabric: Wool
Lining Colour: Off white
Lining Fabric: linen
Closures: No closures
Decorative features: Silk embroidery- 3 lines and a line of scallops around the bottom and 2 lines around the face, garnet beads on the scallop points..
Construction method: Hand stitched with quilting thread. Based on existing hood patterns.
Documentation: Romance of the Rose, 14th century

Pink wool hood with embroidery

Country of Garment: England
Time Period: Late 14th century
Type of Garment:
Hood with tippet
Outer Colour: Pink
Outer Fabric: Wool
Lining Colour: White
Lining Fabric: linen
Closures: No closures
Decorative features: Wool embroidery- 4 lines and a line of scallops around the bottom.
Construction method: Hand stitched with quilting thread. Based on existing hood patterns.
Documentation Romance of Alexander, 14th century.

Red wool hood with tippet and daggues

Country of Garment: England, France, Europe
Time Period: Late 14th century
Type of Garment:
Hood with long tippet
Outer Colour: Scarlet red
Outer Fabric: Wool
Closures: No closures
Decorative features: none
Construction method: Hand stitched with quilting thread.
Documentation: Basic pattern based on Bockstern-style pattern. Daggues as seen in Romance of Alexander, France, 14th century.

Mauve striped wool hood with buttons

Country of Garment: England
Time Period: Late 14th century
Type of Garment:
Hood with tippet
Outer Colour: Mauve grey
Outer Fabric: Striped herringbone wool
Lining Colour: Off white
Lining Fabric: Herringbone Wool
Closures: Wool buttons, hand made.
Decorative features: none
Construction method: Hand stitched with silk thread. Shoulder gores. Based on existing hood patterns. hand made buttons.
Documentation: Coronation of Clarette, 14th century, French

Brown wool hood with cream wool lining

Country of Garment: England
Time Period: Late 14th century
Type of Garment:
Hood with tippet
Outer Colour: Brown
Outer Fabric: Wool
Lining Colour: Off white
Lining Fabric: Herringbone Wool
Closures: buttons
Construction method: Hand stitched with silk thread. Shoulder gores. Based on existing hood patterns. Hand made buttons.
Documentaton: 14th century, Coronation of Clarette, France. Luttrell Psalter, England

Wine wool hood

Country of Garment: England
Time Period: Late 14th century
Type of Garment:
Hood with tippet
Outer Colour: Wine
Outer Fabric: wool
Lining Colour: Off white
Lining Fabric: linen
Closures: none
Construction method: Hand stitched with silk thread. Shoulder gores. Based on existing hood patterns. Embroidery in progress based on French manuscript pattern.
Documentation: 14th century France

Red wool hood - rough wool

Country of Garment: England
Time Period: Late 14th century
Type of Garment:
Hood with long tippet
Outer Colour: Scarlet red
Outer Fabric: 100% Rough Pure New Australian Wool
Inner fabric: 100% cream linen
Closures: No closures
Decorative features: none
Construction method: Hand stitched with quilting thread. Based on bockstern-style pattern.
Documentation: Romance of Alexander, France, 14th century.

Pumpkin wool open hood

Country of Garment: England
Time Period: 15th century
Type of Garment:
Open hood with tippet
Outer Colour: Pumpkin
Outer Fabric: 100% pure new Australian wool
Lining Colour: none
Lining Fabric: none
Closures: none
Construction method: Hand stitched with quilting thread. Based on existing hood patterns.
Documentation: Francais 164 folio 96 Samson et Dalila

Black leather hood

Country of Garment: England
Type of Garment: Hood
Outer Colour: Black
Outer Fabric: Leather
Lining Fabric: None
Closures: None
Decorative features: none
Construction method: Shoulder gore, hand stitched with black linen thread



Veils & Wimples


 

Silk veil and wimple set with pearls
silk veil with pearls
silk wimple


Country of Origin:
Bohemia
Time period:
14th century
Style of Headwear:
Veil and wimple set
Colour:
Cream
Fabric:
100% Silk georgette
Details of Embroidery, Thread, Trim etc:
Silk thread. Real pearls sewn at the edge.
Details of construction:
Hand-stitched oval veil with rolled hem.
Documentation: 14th century, Bohemia, Virgin and Child
Silk veil set with pearls
silk veil with pearls
silk wimple


Country of Origin:
Bohemia
Time period:
14th century
Style of Headwear:
Veil and wimple set
Colour:
Cream
Fabric:
100% Silk georgette
Details of Embroidery, Thread, Trim etc:
Silk thread. Real pearls sewn at the edge.
Details of construction:
Hand-stitched oval veil with rolled hem.
Documentation: 14th century, Bohemia, Virgin and Child

White silk frilled veil & fillet

Country of Origin: England
Time period:
14th century
Style of Headwear:
Frilled Veil
Colour:
White
Fabric:
100% Silk dupion
Details of Embroidery, Thread, Trim etc:
Silk thread.
Details of construction:
Hand-stitched rectangular veil with 1cm frills down the long sides.
Size:
Documentation: Frau von Oettingen, 1358 Germany, Kirchheim am Ries

White silk Italian-style veil with pearls

Country of Origin: Italy
Time period:
14th century
Style of Headwear:
Veil
Colour:
White
Fabric:
100% Silk dupion
Details of Embroidery, Thread, Trim etc:
Silk thread, pearls
Details of construction:
Hand-stitched rectangular veil with pearls stitched in rows.
Size:
Documentation: France, Lombardy

Off-white silk veil/wimple
in progress

Country of Origin: England/Europe
Time period:
14th century
Style of Headwear:
Veil
Colour:
Cream
Fabric:
100% Silk georgette
Details of Embroidery, Thread, Trim etc:
Silk thread.
Details of construction:

Documentation:

White linen Bohun Psalter Z-frill veil

Country of Origin: England
Time period: 14th century
Style of Headwear: Coif
Colour: White
Fabric: 100% Linen
Details of Embroidery, Thread, Trim etc: Cotton quilting thread
Details of construction: Hand stitched with rolled hem. Two rows of frills in a Z pattern..
Documentation: Bohun Psalter, 14th century. England

Silk-linen blend head wrap

Country of Origin: England
Time period: 14th century
Style of Headwear: Veil
Colour: Cream & brown
Fabric: Silk and linen blend
Details of Embroidery, Thread, Trim etc: Cotton quilting thread
Details of construction: Rectangular veil. Hand stitched with rolled hem.
Documentation: 1348 Romance of the Rose Paris,93r-

Large rectangular white linen head wrap
73cm x 150cm

Country of Origin: England
Time period: 14th century
Style of Headwear: Veil/headwrap
Colour: White
Fabric: 100% pure linen
Details of Embroidery, Thread, Trim etc: Cotton quilting thread
Details of construction: Long, large rectangular veil. Hand stitched with rolled hem.
Documentation: 1370-1427 GENTILE DA FABRIANO

Unbleached linen veil

Country of Origin: England
Time period: 14th century
Style of Headwear: Veil
Colour: Stone
Fabric: 100% Linen
Details of Embroidery, Thread, Trim etc: Cotton quilting thread
Details of construction: Hand stitched with rolled hem.
Documentation: Manesse Codex, Germany. 14th century.

Stone linen veil

Country of Origin: England
Time period: 14th century
Style of Headwear: Veil
Colour: Stone
Fabric: 100% Linen
Details of Embroidery, Thread, Trim etc: Cotton quilting thread
Details of construction: Hand stitched with rolled hem.
Documentation: Manesse Codex, Germany. 14th century.

White linen wimple set - medium linen - set 1
white linen semi-circular veil
white linen rectangular wimple

Country of Origin: England
Time period: 14th century
Style of Headwear: Veil and wimple set
Colour: White
Fabric: 100% Linen
Details of Embroidery, Thread, Trim etc: 100% linen thread
Details of construction: Hand stitched with rolled hem.
Made by: Rosalie.

White linen wimple set - extra fine linen
white linen semi-circular veil
white linen rectangular wimple

Country of Origin: England
Time period: 14th century
Style of Headwear: Veil and wimple set
Colour: White
Fabric: 100% extra fine linen
Details of Embroidery, Thread, Trim etc: 100% linen thread
Details of construction: Hand stitched with rolled hem.
Made by: Rosalie.

White linen wimple set - medium linen - set 2
white linen semi-circular veil
white linen rectangular wimple

Country of Origin: England
Time period: 14th century
Style of Headwear: Veil and wimple set
Colour: White
Fabric: 100% Linen
Details of Embroidery, Thread, Trim etc: 100% linen thread
Details of construction: Hand stitched with rolled hem.
Made by: Rosalie.

 

Unbleached linen wimple set
cream linen small oval veil
cream linen wimple

Country of Origin: England
Time period: 14th century
Style of Headwear: Veil and wimple set
Colour: Cream
Fabric: 100% Linen
Details of Embroidery, Thread, Trim etc: Cotton quilting thread
Details of construction: Hand stitched with rolled hem.
Documentation: Veil, Manesse Codex, Germany, 14th century

 

Stone linen wimple set
stone linen small oval veil
stone linen wimple

Country of Origin: England
Time period: 14th century
Style of Headwear: Veil and wimple set
Colour: Stone
Fabric: 100% Linen
Details of Embroidery, Thread, Trim etc: Cotton quilting thread
Details of construction: Hand stitched with rolled hem.
Documentation: St Elizabeth Clothing The Poor, 14th century.



Barbettes & Fillets

Silk barbette & frilled fillet

Country of Garment: England
Time Period: 13th - 14th century
Type of Garment:
Fillet
Outer Colour: White
Outer Fabric: Dupion silk
Decorative features: fillet has a silk frill along the upper of the fillet
Construction method: Hand stitched with white silk thread.
Documentaton:

Linen barbette & fillet

Country of Garment: England
Time Period: 13th-14th century
Type of Garment:
Fillet
Outer Colour: White
Outer Fabric: 100% linen
Decorative features: no decoration or embroidery.
Construction method: Hand stitched with white linen thread.
Documentaton: Taymouth Hours. GB 1325-25 058r

Frilled linen barbette & fillet

Country of Garment: England
Time Period: 13th-14th century
Type of Garment:
Fillet with frills
Outer Colour: White
Outer Fabric: 100% linen
Decorative features: no decoration or embroidery.
Construction method: Hand stitched with white linen thread.
Documentaton: Manesse Codex, Germany. 14th century

Silk fillet

Country of Garment: England
Time Period: 10-15th century
Type of Garment:
Fillet
Outer Colour: White
Outer Fabric: Dupion silk
Decorative features: no decoration or embroidery.
Construction method: Hand stitched with white silk thread.
Documentaton:

Linen fillet

Country of Garment: England
Time Period: 10-15th century
Type of Garment:
Fillet
Outer Colour: White
Outer Fabric: 100% linen
Decorative features: no decoration or embroidery.
Construction method: Hand stitched with white silk thread.
Documentaton:

Woven fillet

Country of Garment: England
Time Period: 12-15th century
Type of Garment:
Fillet
Outer Colour: Cream
Outer Fabric: Cotton
Decorative features: No decorative features
Construction method: Hand constructed and fell hand stitched bought webbing.
Bought from: Webbing bought from Spotlight.



Coifs & Birgitta's Caps

St Birgirta's style coif

Country of Origin: England
Time period: 14th century
Style of Headwear: Coif
Colour: White
Fabric: 100% Linen
Details of Embroidery, Thread, Trim etc: white linen thread
Details of construction: Hand stitched with rolled hem. Two halves joined with decorative lacework along the centre seam. Long ties loop in a circle to secure the cap.
Documentation:

White Linen coif

Country of Origin: England
Time period: 14th century
Style of Headwear: Coif
Colour: White
Fabric: 100% Linen
Details of Embroidery, Thread, Trim etc: Cotton quilting thread
Details of construction: Hand stitched with rolled hem.
Documentation:

Off white wool coif

Country of Origin: England
Time period: 14th century
Style of Headwear: Coif
Colour: Off-white
Fabric: 100% wool
Details of Embroidery, Thread, Trim etc: Cotton quilting thread
Details of construction: Hand stitched with rolled hem.
Documentation:

Pale grey Linen coif 1

Country of Origin: England
Time period: 14th century
Style of Headwear: Coif
Colour: Pale grey
Fabric: 100% Linen
Details of Embroidery, Thread, Trim etc: Cotton quilting thread
Details of construction: Hand stitched with rolled hem.
Documentation: 14th century

Pale grey Linen coif 2

Country of Origin: England
Time period: 14th century
Style of Headwear: Coif
Colour: Pale grey
Fabric: 100% Linen
Details of Embroidery, Thread, Trim etc: Cotton quilting thread
Details of construction: Hand stitched with rolled hem.
Documentation: 14th century

 

Copyright © Rosalie Gilbert
All text & photographs within this site are the property of Rosalie Gilbert unless stated.
Art & artifact images remain the property of the owner.
Images and text may not be copied and used without permission.