BACK TO MY SEWING
ROSALIE'S GARB
MY HEADWEARMY DRESS ACCESSORIESMY MANUSCRIPT CHALLENGES
MY SEWING FOR OTHERS
BACK TO ROSALIE'S MEDIEVAL WOMAN MAIN WEBSITE

My Sewing - Clothing That I've Made For Me
14th C Clothing
- 13th C Clothing - Underwear - Hose - Sleeves & Tippets
Things I made for me but don't have any more.

14th Century Clothing - Silk, Wool & Linen

14th century red and white silk heraldic gown
Country of Garment:
France, England
Style of Garment: 14th century kirtle
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour: Red and white with red chevron
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% dupion silk
Garment Lining Colour: white
Garment Lining Fabric: 100% dupion silk
Sleeve Style: Long, fitted sleeve with pewter buttons with red paste gems set in the centre to the elbow.
Dress Closures: Front buttoning with pewter buttons with red paste gems set in the centre. Buttons by Steve Millingham Pewter Replicas.
Decorative features, embroidery etc: Coat of arms embroidered and appliqued on the left side.
Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. 4-panel pattern. Gores. Set in armholes. Rolled hems.
Documentation: Bourbons meeting Clermont en Beauvais hunting scene

14th century red silk sideless surcote
Country of Garment: England/France
Style of Garment: 14th century sideless surcote with low armholes
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
dark red
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% dupion silk
Garment Lining Colour: mid brown
Garment Lining Fabric: 100% dupion silk
Decorative features, embroidery etc: Gold metal couched embroidery at the neckline and armholes. Flat metal woven braid with flowers at hem. Gold, rose-shaped bezants powdered with freshwater pearl clusters in crosses and roundels
Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. Rolled hems. Hand-embroidered gold embroidery.
Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. Rolled hems. Hand-embroidered gold embroidery. Silk surcote lined with silk, with gold rose bezants and pearl clusters powdered across. Gold embroidered flower hem with 440 garnets and 1890 pearl flowers and rows. Gold embroidery at neck and edges. Based on the warderobe account of Queen Phillipa's ghita.
Documentation: Effigy from Hereford Cathedral of Joanna de Bohun dated1327.

14th century silver short-sleeved silk gown
Country of Garment: England, France
Style of Garment: 14th century kirtle
Size: modern 8
Garment Outer Colour:
Silver grey
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% dupion silk
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: Short sleeve
Dress Closures: Pewter buttons with red paste gems set in the centre. Buttons from Steve Millingham Pewter Replicas.
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. 4-panel pattern with gores. Set in armholes. Rolled hems.
Documentation: 1395-1401 Grande Bible Historiale, Johannette Ravenelle

14th century sage-green silk laced kirtle
Country of Garment: England
Style of Garment: 14th century kirtle
Size:
Garment Outer Colour:
Sage green
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% dupion silk
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: Long, fitted sleeve without buttons
Dress Closures: Laced with lucet cord
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. 4-panel pattern. Set in armholes. Rolled hems. Hand stitched eyelets. Hand luceted lace.
Documentation: Kathryn de Mortimer effigy, Nuremberg sculpture.

14th century oatmeal striped weave wool kirtle
Country of Garment: England
Style of Garment: 14th century kirtle
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
oatmeal
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% wool with woven stripe
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: Long, fitted sleeve with cloth buttons
Dress Closures: Laced with lucet cord
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with cream quilting thread. 4-panel pattern with gores. Set in armholes. Rolled hems. Hand embroidered eyelet holes and hand-made wool buttons on the sleeves..
Documentation: Kathryn de Mortimer effigy

14th century pink wool kirtle
Country of Garment:
England
Style of Garment: 14th century kirtle
Size: modern 8-10
Garment Outer Colour:
pink. Colour matched to hand dyed wool with cocheneal.
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% pure Australian wool
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: Long, fitted sleeve with tin buttons
Dress Closures: buttoned at front to waist
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with pink silk thread. 4-panel pattern without gores. Set in armholes. Rolled hems.
Made by: Rosalie.
Documentation:

14th century mauve gown with hanging sleeves
Country of Garment: England, France
Style of Garment: 14th century
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
Pale mauve
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% wool with woven stripe
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: Hanging sleeves
Dress Closures: Laced with lucet cord at the side
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with cream quilting thread. 4-panel pattern with gores. Set in armholes. Rolled hems. Hand embroidered eyelet holes
Documentation: Christine de Pizan presents to King Carles

14th century russet wool kirtle
Country of Garment: England
Style of Garment: 14th century kirtle
Size: modern 8
Garment Outer Colour:
russet brown
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% wool
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: Long, fitted sleeve
Dress Closures: Laced with lucet cord
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with brown quilting thread. 4-panel pattern with gores. Set in armholes. Rolled hems. Hand embroidered eyelet holes. Silk facing around the neckline, linen re-inforcing for eyelets.
Documentation: Tacuinum Sanitatus, Windy weather

14th century mustard wool surcote
Country of Garment: England
Style of Garment: 14th century surcote
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
bright mustard
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% pure new Australian wool
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: High cut armholes
Dress Closures: None
Decorative features, embroidery etc: None
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 2-panel pattern. Felled seams. Rolled hems.
Documentation:14th century France, Romance of the Saint, also 15th century paintings

14th century navy blue wool surcote
Country of Garment: England
Style of Garment: 14th century surcote
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
navy blue
Garment Outer Fabric: Melton wool
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: High cut armholes
Dress Closures: None
Decorative features, embroidery etc: None
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 2-panel pattern. Felled seams. Rolled hems.
Documentation: 14th century France, Romance of the Saint, also 15th century paintings

14th century green wool mantle
Country of Garment: Generic
Style of Garment: 14th century mantle
Garment Outer Colour:
green
Garment Outer Fabric: Scottish wool
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Dress Closures: None
Decorative features, embroidery etc: None
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 4-panel pattern. Felled seams. Rolled hems. This was bought as a fully made cloak with hood, but was unstitched, the hood removed and the seams re-stitched by hand using traditional techniques. Two eyelets have been stitched one at each side near the neck to support a brooch.
Documentation: approx 1426 Van Eyck, The Three Marys at the Tomb.

13th-14th century blue linen overtunic with wide sleeves
Country of Garment: England
Style of Garment: 13th century wide-sleeved overtunic
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
pale blue
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% linen
Garment Lining Colour: Cream
Garment Lining Fabric: 100% linen
Sleeve Style: Sleeve wide from the elbow to wrist
Dress Closures: None
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 4-panel T tunic pattern. Felled seams. Rolled hems.
Documentation: Tacuinum Sanitatus, 14th century
13th - early 14th century cream linen t-tunic
Country of Garment: England
Style of Garment: 13th century T-tunic
Size: modern 8-10
Garment Outer Colour:
cream
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% linen
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: Long sleeves with no openings
Dress Closures: none
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 4-panel pattern. T-tunic pattern. Felled seams. Rolled hems.
Documentation: England early 14th century, Luttrell Psalter, Ormesby Psalter 13th century Maciejowski Bible


13th Century Clothing

13th century brown linen blend t-tunic
Country of Garment: England
Style of Garment: 14th century T-tunic
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
brown
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% linen
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: Long sleeves with no openings
Dress Closures: none
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 4-panel pattern. T-tunic pattern. Felled seams. Rolled hems.
Low neck to be hidden under kirtles and gowns
Documentation: The Morgan Bible.

Underwear

White linen smock
Country of Garment: Bohemia
Style of Garment: 14th century smock
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
white
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% linen
Sleeve Style: Long, sleeveless
Dress Closures: none
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 2 panel T-tunic panel. Rolled hems.
Documentation: 1380-1400 Bohemia, Wenceceslas Bible

Natural linen smock
Country of Garment: England
Style of Garment: 14th century T-tunic smock
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
natural
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% linen
Sleeve Style: Long, fitted sleeve without buttons
Dress Closures: none
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. 2 panel T-tunic panel. Rolled hems.
Documentation:1380-1400 Tacuinum Sanitatus Casanatense


Hose

Navy wool hose
Country of Garment: England
Style of Garment: 14th century woman's hose
Size: Fits shoe size 8
Garment Outer Colour:
Navy blue
Garment Outer Fabric: Navy blue Melton wool
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. London hose pattern. Rolled hems.
Documentation: London hose

Pumpkin wool hose
Country of Garment: England
Style of Garment: 14th century woman's hose
Size: Fits shoe size 8
Garment Outer Colour:
Pumpkin
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% wool
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. London hose pattern. Rolled hems.
Documentation: London hose

Red wool hose
Country of Garment
: England
Style of Garment:
14th century woman's hose
Size:
Fits shoe size 8
Garment Outer Colour:
Navy blue
Garment Outer Fabric:
Navy blue Melton wool
Decorative features, embroidery etc:
none
Construction:
Hand stitched with quilting thread. London hose pattern. Rolled hems.
Documentation:London hose


Pin-On Sleeves

Blue patterned silk sleeves
Country of Garment: Europe
Style of Garment: Pin on sleeves
Garment Outer Colour:
blue with gold brocaded pattern
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% silk
Garment Lining: none
Decorative features, embroidery etc: Gold metal braid at the wrist set with fake pearls.
Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. Rolled hems.

Red silk sleeves
Country of Garment: Europe
Style of Garment: Pin-on sleeves
Garment Outer Colour:
Red
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% dupion silk
Garment Lining Colour: White
Garment Lining Fabric: Silk dupion
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. Rolled hems.

Red wool sleeves
Country of Garment: Europe
Style of Garment: Pin-on sleeves
Garment Outer Colour:
Red
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% Australian wool
Garment Lining Colour: Brown
Garment Lining Fabric: 100% linen
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. Rolled hems.

Things I've made For Myself Which I don't have Anymore

14th century false velvet sideless surcote with fur
Country of Garment: England, France
Style of Garment: 14th century sideless surcote
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
burgundy with white fur
Garment Outer Fabric: velveteen with rabbit fur
Garment Lining Colour: natural
Garment Lining Fabric: Cotton-linen blend, satin
Decorative features, embroidery etc: Square, metal band of gems stitched down the front.
Construction: Machine stitched velveteen skirt with quilting thread. Linen blend lining. Rolled hems. Hand sewn rabbit fur upper with sateen backing all made by hand.
Donated to:
Abbey Museum of Art & Archaeology for displays
Documentation: 1403 French manuscript K106292. Eleanor of Castille effigy between 1361-1425

14th century brocade sideless surcote with fur
Country of Garment: England, France
Style of Garment: 14th century sideless surcote
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
tan geometric brocade with white fur
Garment Outer Fabric: cotton brocade, rabbit fur
Garment Lining Colour: white
Garment Lining Fabric: satin backing fo rthe rabbit fur only.
Decorative features, embroidery etc: Square, metal band of gems stitched down the front.
Construction: Hand stitched brocade skirt with quilting thread. Rolled hems. Hand sewn rabbit fur upper with sateen backing all made by hand.
Documentation: 1403 French manuscript K106292, Eleanor of Castille effigy between 1361-1425
14th century peacock blue silk sideless surcote
Country of Garment: England/France
Style of Garment: 14th century sideless surcote with low armholes
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
peacock blue
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% dupion silk
Garment Lining Colour: Pale blue
Garment Lining Fabric: 100% dupion silk
Decorative features, embroidery etc: Gold metal braid at the neckline and armholes. Flat metal woven braid with silver and gold pattern at hem. Gold thread embroidered band. Gold, rose-shaped bezants set in between the double rows of embroidery.
Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. Rolled hems. Hand-embroidered gold embroidery.
Documentation 1400-1425 Assasination of Agamemnon de Casibus. BNF Fr 226 Fol 27; 1400-9 St Jerome tempted by dancing girls.
14th century peacock blue buttoned silk gown
Country of Garment: England
Style of Garment: 14th century kirtle
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
Peacock blue
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% dupion silk
Garment Lining Colour: unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: none
Sleeve Style: Long, fitted sleeves
Dress Closures: Front buttoning with pewter buttons with blue paste gems set in the centre. Buttons by Steve Millingham Pewter Replicas.
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. 4-panel pattern. Gores. Set in armholes. Rolled hems.
Documentation: artifact: late 14th century pewter milkmaid badge from London. Manuscript, Paulina and the Priest, early 15th century.
14th century wine silk laced kirtle
Country of Garment: England
Style of Garment: 14th century kirtle
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
burgundy
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% dupion silk
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: Long, fitted sleeve without buttons
Dress Closures: Laced with lucet cord
Decorative features, embroidery etc: Gold metal braid at the neckline and wrist set with fake pearls.Three lines of gold embroidery at hem with pearls set on top of scallops.
Construction: Hand stitched with silk thread. 4-panel pattern. Set in armholes. Rolled hems. Hand sewn eyelets. Hand luceted lace.
Documentation: Kathryn de Mortimer effigy, 1387 Bearosin Getting Engaged Prague

14th century blue linen blend kirtle
Country of Garment: England, France
Style of Garment: 14th century kirtle
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
bright blue
Garment Outer Fabric: cotton-linen blend
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: Long sleeves without buttons
Dress Closures: Lucet braid front lacing
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 4-panel pattern. Set in armholes. Felled seams. Rolled hems.
Documentation: 1412-14 Duk de Berry's Les tres Riches Heures, Limbourgh Brothers, France

14th century red and white heraldic gown
Country of Garment:
France, England
Style of Garment: 14th century gown
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour: Red and white with red chevron
Garment Outer Fabric: cotton velvet
Garment Lining Colour: white
Garment Lining Fabric: cotton
Sleeve Style: Long, fitted sleeve. no buttons.
Dress Closures: Back lacing with hand stitched eyelets.
Decorative features, embroidery etc: Coat of arms embroidered and appliqued on the side.
Construction: Machine sewn internally. Hand finished with quilting thread. 4-panel pattern. Set in armholes.
Documentation: Bourbons meeting Clermont en Beauvais hunting scene.
Notes: This was a very early gown, hence the incorrect back lacing. After this was loved and worn, I turned it into a sideless surcote by taking the sleeves off, sewing up the back seam and lowering the arm openings.
14th century black wool laced kirtle
Country of Garment: Italy
Style of Garment: 1390 kirtle
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
black
Garment Outer Fabric: Melton wool
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: Long, fitted sleeve without buttons
Dress Closures: Laced with lucet cord
Decorative features, embroidery etc: None.
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 4-panel pattern. Set in armholes. Rolled hems. Flat felled seams.
Documentation: Tacuinim Sanitatus, Tailor's Workshop

Brown short-sleeve linen kirtle
Country of Garment: Germany
Style of Garment: 14th century short-sleeved kirtle
Size: modern 8-10
Garment Outer Colour:
mid brown
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% linen
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: Short, set-in sleeves
Dress Closures: Pewter buttons made by Bob Mackay
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 4-panel pattern. Set in armholes. Felled seams. Rolled hems.
Documentation: 1400 The Nativity

Heraldic sideless surcote
Country of Garment: England
Style of Garment: 14th century sideless surcote
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
red and white with red chevron
Garment Outer Fabric: cotton velvet
Garment Lining Colour: white
Garment Lining Fabric: cotton
Decorative features, embroidery etc: Coat of arms embroidered and appliquéd onto right side.
Construction: Machine stitched internallly with cotton thread. Hand finished. 4-panel pattern. Rolled hems. Hand embroidered roses and chevron. No fur on the surcote.
Documentation: Luttrell Psalter 1335 Geoffery Lutterell With His Wife And Daughter
Notes: Although this extended the wear of the heraldic gown which was cut down, there was alwas an issue with the neckline being a little lower than it should be for a surcote. I usually managed to hide this with a decorative hood, but eventually, I needed to make a whole new surcote, so this one was gifted to my freinds at Four Horsemen Photography for their photobooth.

14th century wine silk sideless surcote
Country of Garment: England/France
Style of Garment: 14th century sideless surcote with low armholes
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
wine-coloured
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% dupion silk
Garment Lining Colour: Cream
Garment Lining Fabric: 100% linen
Decorative features, embroidery etc: Gold metal braid at the neckline and armholes. Flat metal woven braid with silver and gold pattern at hem.
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. Rolled hems. Gored added for extra fullness at the hem.
Documentation 14th century, England, Luttrell Psalter

14th century sky blue T-tunic
Country of Garment: France
Style of Garment: 13th century T-tunic
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
bright blue
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% linen
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: Long sleeves with no openings
Dress Closures: none
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 4-panel pattern. T-tunic pattern. Felled seams. Rolled hems.
Documentation: France early 14th century, Romance of the Rose

14th century brick red kirtle
Country of Garment: England
Style of Garment: early 14th century T-tunic
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
dull brick red
Garment Outer Fabric: linen blend
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: Long sleeves with no openings
Dress Closures: Lacing at front
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 4-panel pattern. T-tunic pattern. Felled seams. Rolled hems. Eyelets hand stitched using quilting thread. Lucet cord for the lacing.
Documentation: 14th century and 15th cenury manuscripts.

13th century bright blue T-tunic
Country of Garment: England
Style of Garment: 13th century T-tunic
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
bright blue
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% linen
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: Long sleeves with no openings
Dress Closures: none
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 4-panel pattern. T-tunic pattern. Felled seams. Rolled hems.
Documentation: England 14th century Luttrell Psalter and Ormesby Psalter, 13th century Maciejowski Bible France

14th century blue linen sideless surcote
Country of Garment: England
Style of Garment: 14th century sideless surcote
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
blue
Garment Outer Fabric: 100% linen
Garment Lining Colour: Unlined
Garment Lining Fabric: None
Sleeve Style: Low-cut armholes
Dress Closures: none
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 2-panel pattern. Felled seams. Rolled hems.
Documentation: 1348 Romance of the Rose, Paris,150va

White linen-blend smock
Country of Garment: Bohemia, Italy
Style of Garment: 14th century smock
Size: modern 10
Garment Outer Colour:
white
Garment Outer Fabric: linen-blend
Sleeve Style: Long, sleeveless
Dress Closures: none
Decorative features, embroidery etc: none
Construction: Hand stitched with quilting thread. 4 panel T-tunic pattern. Rolled hems.
Documentation:1380-1400 Bohemia, Wenceceslas Bible, Tacuinum Sanitatus, Italy.


Copyright © Rosalie Gilbert
All text & photographs within this site are the property of Rosalie Gilbert unless stated.
Art & artifact images remain the property of the owner.
Images and text may not be copied and used without permission.