website book blog tutorials noticeboard thegilbertcollection email

fabrics
& sewing

basic
medieval
clothing
sewing
tutorials

easy cheaty
t-tunic pattern
tutorial

easy mostly
historically
accurate
t-tunic
tutorial


easy 13th
century
t-tunic
tutorial


easy
wide-sleeve
gown
tutorial


basic easy
t-tunic
tutorial


kirtle or gown
tutorial


ladies hose
tutorial


easy hood
tutorial


hood with
shoulder
gores tutorial


basic
surcote
tutorial


sideless
surcote
tutorial


noble lady
sideless
surcote
tutorial

frilled fillet
tutorial

pleated fillet
tutorial

eyelet
tutorial

buttonhole
tutorial

cloth button
tutorial

lucet cord
tutorial

tassel
tutorial

Sewing Tutorial:
Early 14th Century Pleated Fillet for use with Barbette

under construction


The frilled or ruffled fillet can be seen in medieval art in the early 14th century, usually pre-1350s. There are a number of variations, ranging from plain and unfrilled, frilly and pleated-looking. Their exact manufacture is unclear as there are no existing ones, so all we can do is make them with techniques which are known from materials which were used. It is always worn with a barbette.

This tutorial is only one potential method of making these to look like the images we see, and it's the way I've done it with the best results. I've made it without the canvas stiffening and also just be sewing the ruffle to the linen band, but this is the way I have made my very sturdy version. It's definitely more work, but the result was very pleasing to me. This method pleats the frill instead of ruffling it.


What you need:
All you need is thread, a needle, pins, scissors,ruler, pen or pencils, a long strip of linen the circumfrence of your head plus about 1.5cm overlap, a strip of canvas or aida cloth the circumfrence of your head plus 1cm. I made this one from silk.

  Step 1
You will need to decide how high you want your fillet to be. Images in manuscripts vary, so gather your supplies.

If you're not sure, wide ruler can be a good guide. You'll also need a ruler, pins, pencil, scissors and a tape measure to measure your head with.
  Step 2
Cut
  Step 3
Do
  Step 4
When
  Step 5
Tighten
  Step 6
Do
  Step 7
Tighten
  Step 8
As
  Step 9
To
  Step 10
Stitch
  Step 11
You
 

Step 10
If

Happy sewing!

Copyright © Rosalie Gilbert
All text & photographs within this site are the property of Rosalie Gilbert unless stated.
Art & artifact images remain the property of the owner.
Images and text may not be copied and used without permission.